Cooking Posts - 2018

Another year, another round of home cookin' (plus any misc. food pics)!

Foie Gras & Potato Tortelloni

These were the leftover tortelloni (which I imagined in a dream) from my dinner with Al that year. They were an oddball creation, but tasted pretty damn good. 

Skillet Meatball Parm

I love parmigiana-style food - I had the idea to try baking it all together in one skillet. The results were a total hit, even better with chicken, a few pics down. 

Bouchon Bakery Chocolate Chip/Chunk Cookies

For my dinner with Al that year I decided to make the Bouchon Bakery crepe cake. The recipe hilariously claims that it's the easiest recipe in the entire book (apparently Thomas Keller is a pro troll - who knew?).

Looking for an "ultimate" chocolate chip cookie recipe, I decided to try Bouchon's. I was thrilled with the results (huge, perfect outer crust and inner softness), and can definitively say that they are significantly easier to make than any crepe cake...

Skillet Chicken Parm

Pot Roast

Banh Mi Dogs

North Sea Oil

A wonderful cocktail I discovered at Eleven Madison Park / NoMad Bar, which is reasonable to make at home: 

Mix 1/4 oz Combier, 1/2 oz Laphroaig 10y Scotch, 3/4 oz Cocchi Americano, and 1 1/2 oz Linie Aquavit with ice. Strain into a chilled rocks glass with a large ice cube and garnish with a grapefruit twist. 

Chocolate Cake

Leah and I had been watching a ton of the Great British Baking Show, so, on a whim, I decided to bake a chocolate cake. In true GBBS fashion, I made an amateur mistake, forgetting to add eggs to one of the cakes (which I baked in two batches). You can see the bottom cake is way more dense as a result. No Hollywood Handshake for me! Oh well, it still tasted good. 

Truffle Gnocchi w/ Ricotta

Buttermilk Ice Cream

Strawberry Sauce, Shortbread Crumble

My friend Nathanael is nuts about ice cream, so I often like to churn my own when we have him and his partner over for dinner. My idea here was to make a sort of strawberry shortcake in ice cream form - it turned out great!

Milk Punch

The leftover whey after making homemade ricotta has a lot of delicious uses. Here I used it as the base of one of my favorite cocktails, the classic Milk Punch. Though this method of curd/whey separation doesn't get nearly as clear as when you're doing it specifically in the cocktail method, it still tastes great. My preferred spirit to mix with it is tequila or mezcal. 

Spaghetti w/ Clams

Ravioli w/ Fresh Tomato Sauce

Eggplant Parm

Sodium Citrate Mac N' Cheese

Pork Chops w/ Sweet Potato Mash

Sous Vide Eggs

My wonderful sister and brother in-laws always get us great food-related gifts. For Christmas 2018 we received a sous vide stick, which I immediately put to use for it's best purpose - perfect slow cooked eggs. 

I hadn't quite gotten the temp/time settings down so these were a tiny bit overdone, but seriously nothing beats one of these eggs on a buttered English muffin topped with a dash of truffle powder. 

Terrier Dinner Club - Winter 2018

In late 2018 I had the idea to start a small dinner club. I thought it would be fun to have a trio of my work friends over - guys who enjoy food and would be open to trying new things. I decided to call the endeavor the "Terrier Club" after my favorite type of dog. The logo was modeled on my parents' dog Roxie, a Westie (and also the mother of my amazing dog Jacques).

I had done special dinners before, like on some of my annual dinners with Al or for my father's 70th birthday, but never something quite like this. It was a ton of work, but also a ton of fun - Leah helped a lot and together we showed my three coworkers a great time, which was really rewarding.

I have a lovely little bar area in my apartment, which allowed me to cook in the kitchen and simultaneously serve my guests. When they arrived, I had their places set, along with a drink menu for them to order from. The cocktails on offer included:

Apple Gin Sour

North Sea Oil (NoMad Bar)

Bacon Old-Fashioned (PDT)

Tequila Milk Punch

Popcorn

Butter, Fall Spices

I didn't know it at the time, but serving a starter of seasonally themed popcorn would become a staple at the Terrier Club. This dinner took place in December, so I used lots of butter, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. The aromas filled the room and made for a welcoming experience when my guests arrived. 

Raw Bar

Blue Point Oysters - Shallot & Cider Vinegar Mignonette

Wild Madagascar Super Colossal Shrimp - Horseradish Cocktail Sauce

Critz Farms, Harvest Moon: Rippleton Original

I love a good raw bar and banked on my guests feeling the same way. Two of them had never eaten oysters before! Thankfully they enjoyed these light, sweet Blue Points. One of my guests said he was a big fan of hard cider, so we paired this course with a dry, champagne-like varietal from the good folks at Critz Farms in central NY. 

Snacks

Truffled Arancini - Foie Gras Filling

Bone Marrow - Parsley-Caper Salad, Country Toast

Queen of the Seven Kingdoms: Sour Blonde Ale Blend

I had this kooky idea to do an arancino (fried riostto ball) with a foie gras mousse filling. It was a great idea in theory, but terrible in practice. There was too much butter in the risotto, which caused it to fall apart when fried. Moreover, since I fried the balls straight from the freezer, the foie gras centers didn't have time to thaw. They still tasted ok, but boy what a mess it was!

Thankfully, Fergus Henderson's immortal bone marrow recipe remains a steadfast hit, one that my guests thoroughly enjoyed, having never eaten bone marrow before. 

Everyone was in full Game of Thrones fever around this time, so I couldn't resist serving this course with a nice GoT-branded sour ale, which cut nicely through all the richness.

Butternut Squash

Maple-Roasted, Fresh Ricotta, Fried Sage, Brown Butter

Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits, "Les Dames Huguette" 2015

I'm particularly proud of this simple dish, inspired by squash I had eaten at Eleven Madison Park years earlier. I roasted a whole butternut squash, then portioned it and re-roasted each piece with a maple syrup glaze. We served it over homemade ricotta with a drizzle of warm brown butter and crisp fried sage - served with a nice rich Chardonnay / Pinot Blanc blend, it was amazing. 

Lobster Bucatini, Winter Version

Lobster Stock, Preserved Lemon, Pickled Chilies, Breadcrumbs

Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits, "Les Dames Huguette" 2015

This was my tribute to the incredible Spaghetti with Crab at Del Posto. I've made this dish a number of times before, substituting lobster for the crab, though in this case I also used preserved and pickled ingredients to fit with the winter theme. The result was wonderful. 

Crispy Sweetbreads

Parsnip Purée & Chip, Pickled Apple, Veal Demi-Glace, Chicory

Francois Villard, Croze-Hermitage, "Certitude" 2015

An updated version of the sweetbread dish I originally thought up for my dinner with Al earlier in the same year. While the accouterments all came out better, my cooking of the sweetbreads was sub-par, resulting in a softer texture than I desired. Still, my guests were champs and cleared their plates, enjoying another weird meat that they had never eaten. 

Slider

Meat Hook Beef & Bacon, Chanterelles, "Gruyère Fondue American Cheese",

Twice-Cooked Fries & Sir Kensington's Mayo

Samuel Smith Old Brewery, Tadcaster Taddy Porter

I originally bonded with these particular work friends over burger talk, so I knew I had to finish the meal with my trademark slider. I humbly think this combination of mushrooms, bacon, and cheese could contend with any burger out there. I had fun using sodium citrate to make "American cheese singles" out of Gruyère, which, due to the sodium's unique properties, retain all the flavor of fondue, but possess all the melt-y qualities of American cheese. 

We served this with thick-cut, twice-cooked fries and our favorite mayo, as well as a rich porter to wash it all down. 

Smoked Chestnut Ice Cream

I love coming up with novel new ice cream flavors. In this case we made a chestnut custard, which we then infused with our smoking gun while it was churning. The results were smokey and delicious!

Pumpkin Soufflé

Bourbon-Molasses Sauce

Critz Farms: 20 Below Ice Cider

I'm nuts for soufflés, so in keeping with the fall theme we did one with pumpkin. Topped with rich bourbon-molasses sauce and served with deep-chilled ice cider from Critz Farms, it was one of the better desserts I've ever made!

"Half A Century Of Poetry"

Espolón Bourbon Barrel Añejo Tequila, Tempus Fugit Crème de Cacao, Grady's Cold Brew, Cinnamon Simple Syrup, Bitter End Mexican Mole Bitters

We closed the meal with my original dessert cocktail creation, named after a reference to my favorite fantasy novel series, The Witcher. 

RV Trip 2018 - Part 6: Emeril's Delmonico Steakhouse

Leah and I had an amazing time at Emeril's on the strip at Universal Studios Orlando a few years back. We also knew we wanted to have a nice steak dinner while in Las Vegas, so we decided that our last meal on the trip would be at Emeril's Delmonico.

Delmonico Steakhouse
The Venetian, 3355 South Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV
venetian.com/restaurants/delmonico-steakhouse.html

RV Trip 2018 - Part 1: Kabuto Edomae Sushi
RV Trip 2018 - Part 2: Misc. Dining
RV Trip 2018 - Part 3: Camping Food
RV Trip 2018 - Part 4: Oak & Ivy
RV Trip 2018 - Part 5: é by José Andrés

This restaurant has been open for 20 years, and honestly it showed when we visited. The decor was kinda drab and tired-feeling. Plates and utensils showed their wear. The walls needed painting. More than anything, the restaurant just wasn't very popular - it was huge inside and only filled about a third of the way even during the evening's peak hours.

As of this writing in late 2019, I see that they're closed for (much needed) renovations, which is nice to hear.

Smoked Salmon Mousse

Cucumber, Chive

This little canape spoke volumes about the restaurant's general feeling of being outdated. I know a lot of these classic 1970's dishes are back in a sort of ironic way (i.e. baked Alaska), but this didn't really feel that way. 

Popover

The same might be said about these popovers (served in place of bread), but they were so damn good that I had no complaints.

Cocktails

I can't remember what we had, but they were pretty decent, if not especially inventive. We were disappointed because we had just missed a big bourbon event they were holding by a just a couple months.

Stuffed Dates

La Quercia Prosciutto, Blue Cheese, Marcona Almonds, Balsamic Reduction

Things moved in a much better direction from here. This classic dish was really delicious.

Kurobuta Bone-In Bacon

Apple Cured, Pickled Watermelon Rind, Abita Root Beer Glaze

This was pretty good, but it sounded better on paper. The flavors were great, but about a third of the bacon was very tough. I remain mystified as to what bone exactly was still attached to the belly - would it have been a bit of floating rib? I'm no butcher, so maybe someone will enlighten me someday!

More Cocktails!

Caesar Salad For Two

Here's a classic I don't mind still appearing. I love a good Caesar salad (as this was), and the kitsch of having it prepared table-side is still a lot of fun to me.

Prime Bone-In Ribeye

20 oz Dry-Aged Creekstone Farms, Foie Gras "Butter"

Country Smashed Potatoes

Creamed Corn Gratinée

The main event (and prime reason we visited) was quite spectacular. The steak was wonderful and perfectly cooked. We loved the "gilding the lily" approach of adding slices of foie gras, which slowly melted like butter atop the warm meat. The sides were also fantastic, especially the creamed corn, which we had ordered per a number of online recommendations.

Overall a really good meal, just not up to current Vegas standards. We ordered a wedge of their famous banana cream pie which we ate the next morning for breakfast before catching our flight home. Quite a trip!

RV Trip 2018 - Part 5: é by José Andrés

José Andrés is a celebrity chef with a lot of cache behind his name, though predictably, his name is about all that you see of him at é by José Andrés. Located in a tiny backroom off his larger branded restaurant Jaleo in the Cosmopolitan Las Vegas, é offers a set tasting menu of well over a dozen courses prepared in unique ways.

The food itself was, on average, quite spectacular, with the imaginative plating taking center stage.

Permeating everything though was a vibe of extreme artificiality, with the "chefs" seeming like mere marionettes whose every movement was dictated by a distant corporate office. For instance, one of the main guys preparing the food told us that the dishes are not created by them, but rather developed by a nameless general manager. That's Vegas I suppose - all glitz and glam up front, but nobody sees how the sausage is made behind the scenes.

I don't mean to be overly negative - it was indeed a memorable and delicious (if wildly expensive) experience!

é by José Andrés
ebyjoseandres.com
3708 Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas, NV

RV Trip 2018 - Part 1: Kabuto Edomae Sushi
RV Trip 2018 - Part 2: Misc. Dining
RV Trip 2018 - Part 3: Camping Food
RV Trip 2018 - Part 4: Oak & Ivy
RV Trip 2018 - Part 6: Emeril's Delmonico Steakhouse

Branches Of The Desert

Kalamata Olive Cracker, Piquillo Pepper Emulsion, Edible Flowers

The evening's activities begin at a communal waiting table at Jaleo, the large restaurant that services é. While we waited for all the other diners to show (one couple was late), we were offered drinks and this initial snack, the first of many surprises throughout the night. 

Once everyone showed, we were led into the tiny backroom that serves as é's dining room. We sat along a u-shaped counter with all the action visible in front of us. At each of our places was a mold of José Andrés' hand, offering us a hot towel with a bundle of aromatic herbs. 

Morning Dew

White Sangria, Cava, Gin

This spherized cocktail popped in the diner's mouth, flooding it with a lovely, refreshing mix of wine and spirits. 

Raventos i Blanc - 'De Nit' Brut Rosé

2015, Conca del Rui Annoia

Cheese

Spanish Pizza - San Simon Cheese, White Truffle, Dried Tomato, Micro Basil

Stone - Idiazabal Cheese, Rosemary Oil, Crunchy Ibérico Fat & Cocoa Butter Shell

Rose - Manchego Cheese, Beet, Walnut-Raisin Cracker

This trio of cheese courses was one explosion of flavor after another, each presented in a delightfully novel manner.

Wonderbread

Apple Meringue, Foie Gras, Black Truffle

The first of many dishes to include foie gras, this was a particularly fun little sandwich - the "bread" was in fact baked apple meringue. 

Pan Con Tomate

Air Bread, Tomato Water & Olive Oil Espuma, Jamón Ibérico

Another little "explosion" bite, with the creamy espuma bursting out from the shell as you bit into it. The Ibérico ham was unbelievably rich, melting in the mouth. 

Emilio Lustau - Don Nuño Olaroso

NV Jerez

Uni & Lardo

Fried Uni Rice Cracker, Hokkaido Uni, Ibérico Lardo

Wonderfully salty and crunchy, this next course paired velvety sea urchin with the unctuousness of Ibérico fat.

Priorat Natur - Vermut

NV Priorat

El Vermut

Mussels, Liquid Olives, Orange

This was more of a workhorse dish. Though not as flashy or luxurious as some of the other courses, the flavors balanced very nicely and added up to a very delicious few bites. 

Edible Sangria

Sangria Slushie, Compressed Melon, Sour Cherry Pearls, Mint

A bit more theatrical here, with the entire counter engulfed in liquid nitrogen, as the chef prepared the ingredients in this frozen sangria. 

Txomin Etxaniz - Hondarrabi Zuri

2016, Getariako Txakolina

Esparrogos Escabeche

Asparagus, Lemon Pith Purée, Egg Yolk Pearls, Osetra Caviar, Escabeche Foam

This was one of the absolute standouts of the evening - the relatively humble asparagus was transformed with the addition of caviar, while the creamy purée, bright lemon notes, and salty egg yolk all combined to a fantastic contrast of flavors and textures.

Txangurro a la Donastiarra

Dungeness Crab, Spanish Sofrito, Toasted Bread Crumbs, "Vial Of Poison" Crab Broth

The crab was delicious and the overall dish was fun to mix together, though I thought their insistence on calling the crab broth a "vial of poison" was idiotic. 

Belondrade y Lurton - Verdejo

2016, Rueda

Foie Royal

Foie Gras Mousse, Almond Milk, Apple, Black Truffle, Nasturtium

Another foie gras course and another impossibly delicious hit.

Platija

Fluke, Basil, Squid Ink Crust & Sauce

A nice break from the richer dishes we had been eating. I can't remember exactly what everything on the plate was, but I do recall enjoying this one, even if it wasn't as over-the-top as many other parts of the meal. 

Fricando

Braised Beef Cheek, Liquid Gnocchi, Chanterelles

The break from richness didn't last long - this beef cheek was so melty and wobbly that you could cut it with a spoon. The "gnocchi" (actually potato spheres with liquid potato) only added to the extreme savoriness. 

"Empenada"

Cotton Candy, Foie Gras, Corn Nuts

The final dish containing foie gras - the empenada "shells" were in fact molded cotton candy with a foie gras and corn nut filling. Wow. 

Menjar Blanc

Cryovac Almond Milk, Caramel, Fruit

This may look like a piece of light sponge cake, but it actually had the texture of ice cream. A nice, light start to desert. 

Intxaursaltsa

Walnut Cream & Praline, Dehydrated Raspberries, Fresh Raspberries

This was the only dish the whole evening that just didn't work for me. It was mostly flavorless, and all the work they did dehydrating things and molding them into different forms didn't add up to anything interesting flavor-wise.

Catalan Egg

Candied Yolk, Vanilla Custard, Orange, Dark Caramel

This deconstructed flan closed out the main desert courses. It was quite good, with all the components of flan represented flavor-wise and visually.

Rom Cremat

A few pics up you can see the mustachioed sommelier preparing this fun burnt rum cocktail. 

Mignardises

Cherry Bomb - Chocolate Shell, Liquid Cherry, Ginger, Merlot

Turrón Tart - Almond Custard, 24k Marcona Almond

More Things...

I don't have notes on what each of these four additional mignardises were, so you'll have to use your imagination. All I can tell you is that the first bite on the left was "cooked" in liquid nitrogen, causing each diner to exhale a breath of vapor as they chewed it. 

Gin & Tonic

The restaurant is "known" for its Gin & Tonics (even having an entire sub-menu of them), so we were happy to receive one to close out the meal. The from-scratch approach allowed the aromatics to really shine, cleansing the palette of all the heavy food we ate. 

After 8

Dark Chocolate, Mint

The final bite took the form of a mint bouquet with a few individual chocolate mint leaves, which we were advised to pick out using the provided tweezers. 

Our souvenir menus and "golden tickets" (which were mailed to us after making our reservation). All in all a very fun, memorable, and delicious evening!