Esca

It's been a long time, but last Saturday night I finally returned to Esca, prompted by a $50 off coupon.

We ordered the tasting menu, which was largely superb.

To start we received 6 flights of Crudo (raw or nearly raw fish), which included a perfectly briny oyster, a piece of fluke with sea bean and radish, about 4-5 tiny ruby red shrimp (similar to the Japanese melt-in-your-mouth ama ebi), a branzino with fish skin cracklin's, a nameless white fish I can't remember with pumpkin seeds, and finally an ethereal sea urchin.

The next course was a large piece of seared monkfish liver, sitting atop a salad of bitter greens, and paired with a cranberry hazelnut relish. Though good, it was the weakest course of the night. The monkfish felt a bit dry and overcooked, and I found the cranberry relish to be a bit too strong and one note.

Our third course was a beautiful plate of creamy polenta topped with two large grilled head-on prawns. The prawns were outrageously rich and were so perfect atop the silky polenta. They were messy to eat, as they required removal from their shells, but so worth it. The innards from the heads were especially great.

For the fourth plate, we received the house signature maccheroni alla chittarra. This was the one repeat from the last time I was at Esca, but it was a very welcome site, as it is probably one of the best things on the menu. The spaghetti is perfectly textured, and the sauce is velvety and luxurious, made from uni and crab meat. The element that ties the whole thing together is a wafer thin shaving of crunchy scallion on top.

Fifth came a roast (I think) striped bass with mushrooms and cardoons. I could not get over the juicy, steak-yness of the fish, which was really transformed from how I would normally expect it to be texture-wise. The mushrooms and cardoons were super rich and buttery - totally delicious.

A tiny cheese course was served prior to dessert. A super-simple little scoop of ricotta di bufula sitting atop a drizzle of honey. Every bite was pure bliss.

Dessert was also a hit - three scoops of gelato (vanilla with crushed nuts, rich chocolate fudge, and coconut) sitting atop a crisp wafer with a drizzle of honey in the middle for me, and a perfectly tangy square of Italian cheesecake with candied orange and pomegranate seeds for the lady. We rounded out the meal with some complimentary Italian cookies and an espresso for me. A delicious evening, truly.

Led Zeppole

After the earlier outing at Momofuku Noodle Bar, we vowed to hit a highly reputed little gut buster of a window shop known as Led Zeppole. As if the name weren't enough to draw you in, the menu makes such offerings as deep fried Oreos and a waffle ice cream sandwich, as well as traditional items like funnel cake, cannoli, and the namesake zeppole.

Though feeling too fat from all the pork at Momofuku, we did manage to squeeze room for an order of zeppole (a three count) and one hell of a messy cream puff. I found the dough on both to be a bit more dense than I am used to - it gave the bites an "old" feeling despite having come straight from the fryer. Still, it's hard to argue with fried dough swimming in powdered sugar.

One note to add - to the deeply-cleavaged spunky stand attendant: you made our experience far more enjoyable than the food alone could have, especially when you let us spin the wheel for a potential free zeppole (way to fail, Leah) and also when you spilled our order of zeppole, covering yourself and the floor in powdered sugar. You rock. We can party anytime.

Momofuku Noodle Bar

After about 3 years of overlooking the rapidly expanding Momofuku wave, I finally made it to the flagship Momofuku Noodle Bar earlier this evening. After tonight's meal, I feel I've been a fool for passing on this superb restaurant for so long.

The interior itself is cute - a little bit chic, a little bit homey, it's modern New York Japanese but much less pretentious than I expected based on my skewed knowledge of the cozy eatery. The counter stretches a significant length of the restaurant, with the close end seating patrons on both sides. Sitting down, we spied four churning machines behind the counter containing various soju slushies. I tried the "Yuzu Palmer", which was delicious, though I could have done with a bit more soju.

Our server behind the counter was super-friendly and seemed quite knowledgeable of her craft despite her young age.

The menu is brief and eclectic, and for a noodle bar there is a rather limited selection of noodles (a scant three). But as the adage goes, quality over quantity. To start we ordered two small items. First came the roast pork buns, which quite literally oozed porky goodness. Sorry, Ippudo, but Momofuku has your buns spanked. The fatty meat was of a melt-in-your-mouth consistency, and a welcome textural component included thin slices of cucumber.

Next to be served were roast pig tails. As the server described, they possessed a rib quality, only in smaller bites (riblets?). The meat was crispy on the outside, stringy and tender inside, dripping with flavor. Accompanying the morsels was a pickled Asian pear salad which was just heavenly. As first time pig tail eaters, we were a bit turned off by the tiny vertebrae bones, but for the flavor that's something I am perfectly willing to overlook.

Our noodle dishes came next: Chilled Spicy Noodles for me and Momofuku Ramen for my date. We each sampled the others' entree - the ramen was great, packed with a very heady piggy essence and more dissolvingly tender pork belly. My noodles, as the server warned, were searingly spicy, almost beyond my personal ability to tolerate, and let's face it - if you are reading this blog you know that is saying something. Overall I feel a bit perplexed by my dish. It felt a bit like a lazy night's dinner at home - "hmm what to eat? How about I throw some of this spicy sauce on those leftover noodles? What else...oooh there's some leftover sausage, and I need something healthy so I'll toss in this bag of baby spinach. Oh and I've been meaning to eat these candied cashews. What the hell, everyone in the pool!" Make no mistake, I liked it, but it was just confusing. Next time I would probably opt for the ramen, or one of the non-noodle mains, which sounded interesting. They also offer a 4 course prix fixe for $30, which is totally acceptable in my book.

I must return here for the fried chicken feast...

Clinton Street Bakery

Heaven, also known as Clinton Street Bakery, is located at 4 Clinton Street in the East Village. This little jewel is the winner of many a "Best In NYC" award for such notable delectables as pancakes, muffins, and biscuits. On my first trip there recently I was more than impressed by virtually every piece of food on my plate.

Ambiance-wise, the place is cute. It's part bakery, part diner. The end. On to the food.

It's the type of menu where you want one of everything. While I told myself that I absolutely had to order their famous blueberry pancakes, as soon as I looked at the menu I found I had a craving for potato pancakes with lox, dill, and lemon creme fraiche. But I stuck to my guns and ordered the requisite pancakes, as well as biscuits, fried green tomatoes, and twice smoked bacon.

Firstly, the biscuits. At $2.50 each, I thought to myself "ok NY prices..." When the biscuits arrived my jaw literally dropped. Or at least opened noticeably. Each flaky, golden, buttery, crumbly, delicate, delight could not have measured less than 6 inches in diameter and 3 inches in height. They were served with a tin of raspberry jam, which was quite honestly the best raspberry anything that I have ever consumed. I could eat this jam on these biscuits every day for the rest of my life, and I am not a raspberry person (though I am a biscuit person). The only thing that could have improved the biscuit-devouring experience would be some nice thick honey to drizzle on. Oh well, I settled for bacon.

The twice smoked bacon was very good. It really had a strong bacon flavor, though it could have been a bit more crispy and a bit less chewy. I would be interested in trying the sugar cured bacon next time.

Fried green tomatoes are a real fav of mine and these did not disappoint, though at 7 bucks for four slices they were probably the only thing we ate that I would actually consider overpriced. They were everything a fried green tomato should be, with the addition of a really fine tangy sauce, which I'm reasonably certain was the same lemon creme fraiche offered on the potato pancakes & lox. Yum.

Let's talk about pancakes. I don't much care for pancakes from restaurants. I only eat pancakes that are made by the following list of people:

- my mother

- my father

- me

While I prefer pancakes that are thinner and a little bit crisp about the edge, invariably this is not what is served when dining out. Rather you receive a thick, spongy, often dry cake that crumbles when you cut into it and forms a sort of mush when the crumbs from the center of the cake mix with the syrup. Ew. Not to mention the countless places that serve Aunt Jemima under the inappropriate handle of "Maple Syrup".

So please understand that I felt a certain amount of trepidation in ordering even the "Best Pancakes in NYC" rather than more savory dishes like the potato pancakes or truffle fried eggs with asparagus. But no, my inner willpower persevered and I forced myself to order a stack of Maine blueberry pancakes. What fortitude, right?

While they were not the best pancakes I have ever had in my life (yes that title is still held by my folks and I), they were absolutely the best pancakes I have ever been served in a restaurant. They were quite thick and fluffy, though they did have that delicate crispness I so enjoy. The blueberries were astoundingly delicious, both in the cakes themselves and also in the form of a rich sauce atop the stack. And to top it all off, a warm cup of whipped maple butter (a thick mixture of maple syrup and butter). Had it been my last meal ever I would have been pretty satisfied I think. Next time I am getting the buttermilk biscuit sandwich for sure - scrambled eggs, melted cheddar, and homemade tomato jam.

How a chump like Bobby Flay managed to beat these guys in a pancake throwdown is utterly beyond my comprehension.

Le Bernardin

After months of procrastination, I present to you my extremely overdue review of Le Bernardin.

Al and I decided to aim high this year for our annual dinner. The experience was mostly great, though it included a couple kinks that unfortunately made it less than perfect. The main issue came not with the food at all, but began when I made the reservation online through Open Table. Some time after securing our table I received a call from the restaurant's reservationist to confirm our table for 5:30 PM. Toward the end of our conversation she said to me, "...and just so you're aware, your table has been appropriated by another party at 8:00 PM." Not even quite registering what she was telling me I hesitated, then asked her to please repeat, which she did in calm, clear fashion. Befuddled, I hung up. It wasn't until later on that the inappropriateness of what she said to me registered. At one of NYC's top restaurants I would expect better than to be told, essentially, that there was a time limit to my dinner. Now, I am under no illusions that such time allowances do exist during each and every dinner service, but this is not something that should ever be revealed to the customers. Absolutely never.

Al and I decided to bring this to the attention of a manager upon our arrival. The manager said, "Oh of course you will not be rushed or asked to leave, please enjoy your dinner". Ok, but I found his response rather more slick than I would have cared for. It had the air more that we were silly for even thinking that might happen, rather than simply apologizing for the reservationist's rudeness. As Al and I were seated we decided that we would take our time with our meal and keep a close eye on the service to see if it suffered around the 8:00 PM mark.

The restaurant itself is beautiful. A combination of warm wood panels reminiscent of Japanese architecture and vibrant colors emanating from the many European (Dutch?) paintings lining the walls. A very nice balance between comfort and elegance.

On to the food! With Al uninterested in the Le Bernardin tasting menu, and myself with the standard a la carte selections, we agreed to go big and do the 8 course Chef's Tasting Menu. A very charming and knowledgeable sommelier was sent to service our wine selection. She and Al hit it off rather wonderfully, and the resulting wines they picked together were superb.

First - Tuna

Smoked Yellowfin Tuna "Prosciutto"; Japanese Pickled Vegetables and Crispy Kombu

The meal began with a slightly rocky start. There was absolutely nothing wrong with this dish - it was interesting and tasty, especially the smokey kombu, however Al and I both felt that it didn't set a very impressive tone for the rest of the meal. It was quite simply too plain, falling even beyond the overused and zombie-ish "simple, clean, fresh" mantra littering cooking currently. Were it not for the spectacular Amuse preceeding this first course, we would have been a bit worried.

Second - Egg-Caviar

Poached Pastured Egg; Osetra Caviar; Mariniere Broth and English Muffin

Any reservations we had after the mediocre first course were blown away. Quite simply the best egg I've ever eaten in my life, this may have been my favorite dish of the evening. Everything about it - from the voluptuous texture of the egg, the buttery taste of the broth, the subtle saltiness of the caviar, and the delicate crisp and chewiness of the bread - were simply a work of art.

Third - Langoustine

Seared Langoustine, Mache, Wild Mushroom Salad; Shaved Foie Gras; White Balsamic Vinaigrette

This was a wonderful salad course. The langoustine was plumpand juicy, and all the other elements supported it very nicely. The star here was truly the vinaigrette - just a little bit sweet and a little bit sour, but totally unique and complimentary to the food elements. The white wine Al selected paired especially well with this dish, which I believe was Al's favorite.

Fourth - Monkfish

Pan Roasted Monkfish; Hon Shimeji Mushrooms; Turnip - Ginger Emulsion; Sake Broth

I'm a big fan of monkfish, and this offering did not disappoint. The plating was rather interesting - the sake broth poured first around the fish, and the thicker ginger emulsion being spooned in dollops into the broth. The fish was fantastic, and it was a nice touch of personal decision-making in being able to control the level of intake on the two wildly different but matching sauces.

Fifth - Black Bass

Crispy Black Bass; Braised Celery and Parsnip Custard; Iberico Ham - Green Peppercorn Sauce

For those Top Chef fans out there, this dish made an appearance in season 5, in which the contestants were treated to lunch at Le Bernardin and then had to recreate one of the dishes they ate. Jamie, who made no attempt at hiding her contempt for the cooking of the restaurant, was assigned this Black Bass dish. She complained the whole way and then failed miserably in her execution of the dish, getting booted from the show in just fashion. It was my pleasure to try this course myself, and I was very happy to be able to say that the dish is absolutely delicious and that any aspiring chef unimpressed by its subtle complexities is not in the right field.

The whole presentation was simply oozing flavor - the celery so gentle but acting as a sponge for the complex sauce. The fish was elevated so much by these elements, and the parsnip custard (topped with a parsnip foam and parsnip chip) was a wonderful sharp yet rich cutting component. A very close contender for favorite dish, rivaled only by the egg.

Sixth - Lobster

Baked Lobster on a Bed of Truffled Foie Gras Stuffing; Brandy Red Wine Sauce

Unfortunately by this point I was a bit worn out of the standard presentation of food, that being 1) Base element, 2) Fish on top of base element, 3) Sauce spooned into plate surrounding fish. While this dish on its own was really quite delicious, it was simply one too many similar concepts and felt a bit unnecessary in the meal as a whole.

Seventh - Chevre

Creamy Goat Cheese Spheres, Concord Grape, Candied Walnut, Black Pepper

A polarizing dish - like the lobster course it was tasty on its own, but seemed a little out of place in terms of the larger menu. The cheese capsules were quite fun to eat, popping in your mouth as you bit into them, and the tiny concord grapes added a great texture component. It was just disappointing to see the magnificent cheese cart being wheeled around, and instead receive a more concept-oriented sweet cheese course. Al and I both would have preferred a simple sampling of 3 or so cheeses from the cart rather than this relatively high frill, more dessert style dish.

Eighth - Corn-Praline

Caramelized Corn Custard, Hazelnut Praline, Brown Butter Ice Cream, Popcorn Tuile

Dessert somehow always feels less elegant than the savory courses. Not so here - the custard was served inside the crispy praline shell, with the ice cream and tuile on the opposite side of the plate. Each component was perfect on its own, but still combined to become more than the sum of their parts. The popcorn tuile was truly heroic here.

Overall the food was pretty superb. It was not perfect - there were some hiccups along the way, but absolutely nothing was "bad", only less spectacular than others. The highs came in the form of the egg, the langoustine salad, and the black bass. What stuck with me the most about the food can be found in the words I used repeatedly to describe it: "delicate, subtle, complimentary". This was not a meal that attempted to hit the flavors out of the ballpark. It did not go for big, huge flavors, but it did not do "simple, clean, fresh" either (well except maybe for the first course). The cooking was very intricate and very purposeful. Every element that was on the plate, or not on the plate, was an intelligent, well-thought out choice. It was extraordinarily complex in its subtlety - a true example of food that only seems simple but is in fact layered with dynamism.

One interesting side note was that Eric Ripert did make the rounds of the dining room twice throughout the evening. He greeted many of the guests, and it was impressive to see him there on an evening where most chefs of his fame would not set foot in their own restaurant. My understanding is that he still runs the kitchen nearly every night. Al noticed that each time he was present in the dining room, service stopped completely. Not a single dish left the kitchen while he was away from it, leading us to believe that he may have been personally overseeing the end of the line on every dish. Very classy.

Sadly, we did notice the service become very rushed toward the end of our meal. No sooner after we set our forks down at the end of the cheese course did the servers pick up our plates and set down the next course in one motion. The same occurred after finishing the desert - immediately our plates were gone and we were being asked if we would like anything else. Al had to ask for the after dinner drink menu (something that absolutely should have been offered to us without asking), and we decided to each enjoy a nice, long, slow glass of scotch. We spent about another 30 minutes enjoying that scotch, finally walking out a little bit after 9:00.

Ippudo

It's been far too long since I posted. So here we go, a string of updates starting with the lusty temptress known as Ippudo.

Located downtown at 65 4th Avenue, Ippudo is a Japanese restaurant that takes the humblest of Japanese dishes and elevates it to upscale pop culture star status. The dark but glitzy interior entry room houses a hostess stand and small bar where one can order 2 for 1 pints of Kirin or Sapporo for $6 Monday-Thursday. Speaking of weeknights, don't expect to come to Ippudo on a weekend without a potentially multi-hour wait. For that matter, try to get there before 6:00 even on weeknights, and even if your party is small. The icy hostesses won't help matters much if your dining situation is less than set in stone. With forced smiles they decree that restaurant policy is to A) Not seat parties that aren't all present (an increasingly common dining rule, but one I wholeheartedly disagree with), and B) Add-ons are not allowed. Wait, what? So when my party of 5 was seated at a table that could have accommodated 7 or 8, apparently were we to have another guest show up later they would not have allowed them a seat.

Fortunately, the inadequacies in service are limited to the hostesses, acting almost as the restaurant bouncers who may more may not allow you entry past the red velvet curtain into the dining room proper. Once inside things are a different story. Newcomers may be startled at first to hear an entire restaurant's worth of chefs, hosts, and servers shouting at them when they enter the dining room. In (mostly) traditional Japanese form, the entire staff greets each guest with a hearty "Irasshaimase!" (welcome!) upon entry. The decor itself is sleek but warm, with a sit down bar lining the L-shaped exposed kitchen area. Adorning the back wall is a list of names spelled in Hiragana depicting the business's staff, starting with the founder in the top left corner. But enough small talk. Guests flock to Ippudo for one thing and one thing only: Ramen.

Well they don't really just do Ramen. There is an entire menu of hot and cold appetizers, including their famous pork buns, which must be tried to be believed. These juicy little morsels are pricey - about $8 for two buns - but well worth the investment. Served as a sort of sandwich rather than the traditional enclosed bun, the pillowy dough wraps slices of sticky sweet pork topped with a crisp leaf of iceberg lettuce and a dollop of Japanese mayo. Upon first biting into one of these heavenly little guys, I recalled a vague taste memory...what was it these flavor grenades reminded me of? Then it hit me: the pork buns at Ippudo taste exactly like a Wendy's Junior Bacon Cheeseburger. And I mean that with the utmost respect and adoration.

Ramen. It's delicious, and contrary to some tradition-bound naysayers, Ippudo does it REALLY well. The menu consists of 5 different ramens, plus one nightly special. Choices include a fairly catch-all traditional model, a savory and salty soy based affair, a light and fragrant herbal infusion, a nutty concoction rich with roast sesame flavors, and finally the senses and convention shattering Akamaru Modern - a rich blend of pork based soup with Ippudo's spicy "special sauce", red miso paste, and, floating atop this magnificent elixir, a fragrant layer of garlic oil. Each ramen includes several of a variety of toppings, most of which can be ordered as add-ins, similar to the manner in which you would get a pizza with pepperoni, sausage, and jalapenos (at least you would if you were as awesome as me). For example, the Akamaru Modern includes slices of simmered Berkshire pork, cabbage, onions, scallions, and kikurage (wood ear mushrooms). However I have yet to order ramen without the mandatory addition of incredibly sexy kakuni (braised pork belly), and usually a seasoned hard boiled egg or bamboo shoots.

Of course it wouldn't be ramen without the noodles. Ippudo's are a delight - perfectly cooked every time to be slightly toothsome and chewy, but by no means al dente. The best part is that for $2 extra, one may ask for "kae dama" - provided you've left a generous enough amount of soup in your bowl but finished all your noodles, the servers will bring you another portion of noodles to add to your bowl.

Having dined at Ippudo with a Japanese friend of mine, I realized that I am indeed a statistic: apparently something like 80% of the customers who go their first time and order Akamaru Modern return within the same week for a second time. Well having ordered Akamaru Modern, I actually returned twice in the same week. A word of warning however: eating at this ridiculously decadent noodle and broth juggernaut three times in a week leaves one's insides dry and crying for moisture (MSG OD anyone?).

In this eater's opinion, a small price to pay for such bowl shaped bliss.