Cosme

Three years after it opened, Leah and I enjoyed a mixed-bag dinner at the much-hyped Cosme. Some of what we had was absolutely excellent, while other dishes felt mediocre at best. We agreed that it was overly fussy and unfortunately not worth the extraordinary price tag, though still worth going once to see what all the fuss was about.

I don't have notes or a menu so I'll do my best to remember what everything was.

Cosme
35 E 21st St, New York, NY
www.cosmenyc.com

I was immediately turned off by the restaurant interior. It felt like a temporary popup, not an established fine dining establishment. The industrial, studio set appearance was really off-putting, and I didn't care for the open yet cramped floor plan (i.e. no privacy from fellow diners at all). Thinking back, it felt like something you would see on Top Chef's Restaurant Wars episodes.

Cocktails

I recall these cocktails being only so-so. As a side note, I'm generally annoyed by garnishes that serve no purpose other than for visuals (see my rants about gold leaf). This hibiscus flower was beautiful but did nothing for the drink.

Fried Tortillas

Of course Cosme makes their own tortillas in a variety of styles. This fried variety started us off nicely, served with a nut salsa that was more of a spread.

Uni Tostada

One of the more famous dishes as of when we visited, this tostada was underwhelming. The flavors were pretty nice, but the thing was a nightmare to eat, as the delicate tortilla buckled under the weight of the toppings, and fell apart instantly upon taking a bite. It ended up as uni "taco salad" very quickly. 

Cobia al Pastor

I enjoyed this dish quite a bit, but this was en example of where I felt things were very fussy and overly refined. The richness of the fish paired nicely with the pineapple and cilantro, substituting for the pork you would normally find in tacos al pastor. I was a little confused here, as the menu didn't mention that this dish was intended to be eaten with tortillas (other dishes on the menu specified when they came with tortillas). So course after course was tortillas. I love tortillas, but we would likely have ordered differently had we known. Imagine going to a fancy Italian restaurant, ordering a bunch of pasta and then some things you thought were not going to be pasta but actually were. 

I remember liking this cocktail a lot - I enjoy pineapple cocktails, and the piece of dried pineapple here was a great garnish. 

Softshell Crab Tempura

I recall this as being light and tasty, but much else. It was another tortilla dish. 

Duck Carnitas

The restaurant's #1 savory dish, and an instant hit. This was the home run we were waiting for all evening. The duck was incredibly fatty and succulent, and the whole composition perfectly summed up what I love about Mexican food - the combination of rich, savory meats with bright, acidic garnishes. 

Later, after watching a video on how they make this incredible plate, I recreated it at home and served it at a dinner party. It actually came out very nicely and, while very labor intensive, wasn't too difficult. 

Our server, who I found a little sleazy, insisted that this dessert should be ordered. I think it was rhubarb. I found it completely unmemorable and found myself annoyed that we listened to the used car pitch of the server...

Husk Meringue

Here is THE famous dish, the most Instagrammed dish of the year, inspiration for countless others like it. Did it live up to the hype? I thought so. It was a truly unique and novel experience and was my favorite bite of the night, even more than the carnitas. 

Mignardises

I think these were guava paste? Not much else I can say.