For our seventh annual dinner, Al and I swung big and went to Eleven Madison Park, which, back in 2014 before it had earned "Best Restaurant In the World" designation, was on a steady up-track.
Restaurant Exterior on a cold January Saturday evening.
Anthora
Averna, Punt e Mes, Cold-Brew Coffee, Aquavit, Lemon, Sugarcane
I had arrived early and enjoyed a cocktail in EMP's cozy bar area, which has since been completely remodeled.
Restaurant interior, again very different compared to the recent renovations.
Bushwick
Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth, Maraschino Liqueur, Amer Picon
Not Pictured: Arthur Avenue
Bourbon, Cynar, Carpano Punt e Mes Vermouth, Mezcal Spray
When we sat down, the first thing we noticed was a signed card from Al's always-wonderful GF (later wife) Megan, treating us to a round from the Manhattan cart. We ordered from the novel New York map of different Manhattan styles, and enjoyed chatting with the roving server. She joked that the restaurant won't let her step out from behind the cart, and has to take it home on the subway with her.
Cheddar
Savory Black & White Cookie w/ Apple
EMP's iconic take on the New York classic. We didn't feel these tasted like apple at all, but rather like high-end Cheez-Its.
Oyster
Grapes, Bulgar Wheat, Sorrel
The "grapes" were in the form of a frozen mignonette snow, and the bulgar wheat was fried, adding a nice textural component. The freezing-cold snow overpowered the oyster a bit, unfortunately.
Shrimp
Marinated, w/ Sea Urchin, Foie Gras, Chervil
The uni custard was luscious, as were the tiny, delicate, and incredibly sweet shrimp.
Sturgeon - Part I
Sabayon, w/ Chive Oil
The first of a multi-course dish based on smoked sturgeon. The buttery custard was super-rich but also airy, and sat atop finely diced sturgeon below. A vivid green chive oil coated the bottom of the egg. I picked mine up and slurped the remaining oil out at the end.
Sturgeon - Part II
Smoked, w/ Everything Bagel Crumble, Caviar, and Pickles
This ode to the Jewish delis of New York City was presented in a transparent dome filled with smoke - when the dome was lifted, the aroma of the smoked fish filled the room (every fifteen minutes or so we could smell another table getting this). The simple little "salad" mimicked a class Caesar and the caviar accompaniment took the form of a generous layer of American sturgeon roe topping a tin of cream cheese. The homemade pickles were a mix of sour and half-sour.
All-in-all, this monument to creativity and history was our favorite dish of the night.
Omegang Duvel Rustica - Cooperstown, NY
We had discussed beverage pairings and I requested some beer, like this delicious pale ale, be included along with wine.
Bread & Butter
When we first sat down, we were asked to make a few meal choices - one involved which protein would be our main entree (either duck or venison). We flipped for it and landed on duck. The left butter was EMP's standard version made for them by a special creamery, while the right had the fat from our chosen protein (duck) mixed in. Both were heavenly.
The butter was served with a pair of freshly baked rolls. They were shaped like cinnamon rolls, yet flaked and tasted like buttery croissants.
Foie Gras
Terrine, w/ Potato, Greens, and Black Truffle
Our other choice of the night was between a hot or cold preparation of foie gras. As it was the "chef's recommendation" to order the cold terrine, we decided not to argue, and were very pleased with the results.
Carrot
Tartare, w/ Rye Bread and Condiments
Another playfully creative dish - a server affixed this hand-crank grinder to our table, then returned a moment later with a large carrot. He explained where the carrot was grown, what soil it was grown in, and how it was poached (none of which I can remember, of course), then proceeded to grind it in front of us.
The resulting "tartare" was delightful. He encouraged us to taste the carrot in different combinations with the provided condiments - from top-left to bottom-right: Apple Mustard, Sunflower Seeds, Pickled Quail Egg Yolk, Smoked Bluefish, Chives, Mustard Seeds, Fresh Grated Horseradish, Pickled Apple, Sea Salt. Ultimately, I combined everything together, and separated the mixture into two piles, one of which I ate with the provided Spicy Carrot Vinaigrette and the other with Mustard Oil.
A slightly simpler version of this stand-out dish has remained one of the best bites on the menu at the NoMad Bar.
Lobster
Poached, w/ Brussels Sprouts and Guanciale
Kabocha Squash
Roasted, w/ Cranberries, Pumpkin Seeds, and Sourdough
Absolutely transcendent - it was fall on a plate. We thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful table-side presentation, and I especially appreciated that the sourdough seal used to bake the interior of the squash was also used in the final plating.
Cider (for the squash course) and Pinot Nor (for the upcoming duck.
Duck
Honey-Roasted, w/ Lavender, Sichuan Peppercorns, Turnip, and Huckleberries
Another beautiful presentation which led to a spectacular multi-item plating. EMP's signature duck is not to be missed. Tender meat, crisp skin, and lots of little interesting sub-components on the plate, for instance the tiny turnip "ravioli" filled with duck meat.
On the side, we were served a small cup filled with the rich duck leg meat and topped with cream potato mousseline. Each sweet, almost sticky bite coated the lips - an "anti-palette cleanser". Amazing!
Greensward
Pretzels, Violet Mustard, Grapes, Beer
Another novel hit, this cheese course cleverly mimicked a picnic spread, even down to mock paper plates. The luscious cheese, from Murray's Cheese, was inspired by the "Greensward Plan", the original name of the plan to create Central Park. The cheese, a soft-ripened raw cows' milk variety, was cave-aged and washed with Ithaca Beer Co. Picnic Basket Ale (a bottle of which we were served as part of the course). The beer was also used in the mustard and pretzels.
Malt
Egg Cream w/ Vanilla and Seltzer
Another table-side love letter to EMP's roots in New York City, this egg cream was light and sweet, its effervescence dissipating even as I took this quick photo.
Apple
Sorbet, w/ Bay Leaf, Crème Brûlée, and Hibiscus
A complex dessert - at first a little underwhelming, but the flavors improved as everything melted down a bit and mingled together.
Sweet Potato
Cheesecake, w/ Honey and Chestnut
The dessert itself was a home-run, and was preceded by a fun magic trick, which involved us choose a chocolate flavor, only to have that chocolate magically appear beneath our dish as we lifted it. The "cheesecake" was more of a mousse, with crispy strands of sweet potato. I received a passion fruit chocolate (top), while Al received an orange chocolate (bottom). Each was individually hand-decorated.
Pretzel
Chocolate Covered w/ Sea Salt
These "pretzels" were actually pulsed and mixed with white chocolate, then molded back into pretzel shape before being covered with dark chocolate and a few flecks of sea salt. Yum.
Chocolate
Sweet Black & White Cookie w/ Cinnamon
We came full circle with a sweet version of the same cookie from earlier, bookending our meal. Along with our check, the server dropped a bottle of Apple Brandy on the table and simply told us to help ourselves.
At the end of the meal, we were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves invited into the kitchen for a little tour and a treat (we've since learned this is a staple of the dining experience at EMP). As the operation was explained by the maître-d', we enjoyed watching the creation of this frozen sweet cocktail with liquid nitrogen by Brian, the "most photographed member of the EMP staff".
