January 8, 2017

NoMad Bar - Mamma Guidara's

Recurring readers are no-doubt familiar with my love of the NoMad Bar. I was delighted to hear in late 2016 that they would be transforming the bar on Sundays into a popup ode to the classic "red sauce" Italian joints of NYC history. The idea was the brainchild of co-owner and head of service Will Guidara, whose father ran the famous Mamma Leone's, which closed in the mid-90's.

I grew up eating this type of food all the time, so I was very excited to see an establishment like the NoMad Bar (and their parent company, Make It Nice) embark on such an endeavor. The meal was mostly pre-set, with a few specific choices along the way.





One couldn't ask for a more nostalgic tribute to the Italian restaurants of old (yes some still exist, but most have gone the way of the dinosaur as American food culture has "modernized"). Red checkered tablecloths, the Italian flag, and candles burning in spent Chianti bottles. Amazing!





Antipasti

A nice assortment of cured meats, cheese, and pickled vegetables. Everything virtually identical to what I eat with my family on most holidays. The Italian bread with butter packets was a nice touch.


Gibson
London Dry Gin, Chambèry Blanc Vermouth, Pickled Pearl Onion

I love a good martini as much as the next person, but I prefer the Gibson, which is identical except that it's served with a cocktail onion instead of olives.


Caesar Salad

Fried Calamari

Seafood Salad

Meatballs w/ Red Sauce







Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe
Parmigiano Reggiano, Black Truffle

This spectacular, optional pasta course saw our server wheel out a huge half-wheel of the undisputed king of cheeses, in which she ignited a bit of grappa, then tossed in the pasta. Finally she shaved a generous portion of black truffle over the top of each dish. Pure heaven!


Cauliflower

Chicken Parmigiana for Two

The star dish, a massive chicken parm for two. It was good, but not great - I got the impression that it had unfortunately been sitting for some time before being served to us. We took most of it home and heated it up for dinner the next day, which enlivened it quite a bit.


Grasshopper
Fernet Branca, Crème de Menthe, Crème de Cacao, Mint, Cream

The grasshopper was the first cocktail I tried ordering while underage (they wouldn't serve me). I never ended up actually having one until this evening. Not quite the traditional recipe with the inclusion of Fernet, but still tasty!


Tartufo

Cannoli


The meal wasn't perfect, but it was as fun as any we've had. Great to see high-end establishments embracing their more humble roots. One more feather in the NoMad Bar's cap as far as I'm concerned!