Perilla is a cozy neighborhood restaurant in the village, located at 9 Jones Street. Most well-known for taking home the win on the first season of Bravo's Top Chef, Harold Dieterle cooks up a variety of creative and satisfying seasonal American dishes. The menu is brief and to the point, with little waste, but still something for all tastes.
I love this place - I keep finding reasons to come back. The decor is classy, but intimate and warm. Service is very good, better than than the prices would dictate. And the food...one of the rare restaurants where everything on the menu sounds incredible (and usually is). Came here for dinner with Leah last Friday night, and it did not disappoint. Portion sizes are substantial and I always feel that the management could be charging significantly more for the quality and quantity you receive.
Starters
Crispy Berkshire Pork Belly
apple kimchi, pickled watermelon radish, & carob molasses
- how can you go wrong with pork belly? This take is delicious and the accompaniments allow the pork to shine.
Spicy Duck Meatballs
mint cavatelli, water spinach, quail egg
- One of Harold's dishes that were featured on Top Chef. Absolutely delicious, and always fun to mix the raw quail egg into the sauce for added richness.
Mains
Braised Elk Osso Bucco
celery root puree, baby carrots & ginger-sassafras sauce
- When I see uncommon game on the menu I usually have to order it. The elk did not disappoint - it was rich and flavorfull and as with any traditional osso bucco, the chef allowed access to the marrow inside the bones. What flavor!
Black Trumpet & Sheep's Milk Ricotta Cannelloni
deep fried egg, leeks & white truffle-cardoon sauce
- Rich and satisfying, even to a non-mushroom lover like Leah. I thought doing one large cannelloni was a fun and unusual take.
Cheese
Rivers Edge 'Up in Smoke', Oregon
semi-soft, pasteurized goat, maple & smokey chevre
Five Spoke Creamery 'Tumbleweed', Pennsylvania
semi-hard, raw cow, aged, sour & fruity cheddar
Penterman Farm 'Marieke Aged Gouda', Wisconsin
hard, raw cow, crunchy, rich & sweet like molasses
- Nice to enjoy a small cheese course prior to dessert. I think we selected well - everything was complimentary and quite nice on the palette after our rich meal.
Dessert
Frozen Banana Parfait
candied peanuts & caramelized banana caramel sauce
- Quite spectacular, this one. The whole thing was stacked as almost an ice cream sandwich. A little tricky to eat actually, but this was exactly what I want in a dessert flavor-wise.
Dessert Special
- I wish I could remember what was in the dessert special Leah ordered. It was a similar ice cream, crispy wafer, stacked affair and really fantastic.
December 29, 2008
November 20, 2008
Zenkichi
Food
Zenkichi describes itself as "a modern Japanese brasserie with an authentic dining experience of popular Tokyo establishments." Contrary to what most Americans believe Japanese cuisine to be, Zenkichi offers little to no sushi. Rather, the cuisine is presented in the form of Tokyo-style small plates, made specifically with the idea of sake-pairing. Ingredients are seasonal and the Omakase menu changes every five weeks.
Decorum
A nice change from the typically flashy ultra-modern New York hot spots, Zenkichi is rather subdued and intimate. Stepping inside the unadorned doorway, one immediately feels as if they've left the streets of the city. The stone walkways, wood-paneled walls, and bamboo decorations could easily make this place feel like a glorified theme-restaurant. Thankfully, the taste with which the restaurant was designed puts any of these initial fears to rest. The addition of quiet jazz was a nice touch, as opposed to the possibly stereotypical use of traditional Japanese music. The newly opened Winter Garden was a treat to dine in.
Service
The staff appears to be highly trained and waits on diners in the manner of most formal Japanese restaurants. They all seem very knowledgeable and happy to explain some of the more challenging items on the menu. A nice touch includes a button on each table that can be pressed to call the waiter. This helps further the notion of privacy and intimacy that this style of restaurant promotes.
Experience
After a very enjoyable first time here, wherein we were treated to hors d'oeuvres and sake, the accomodating and down-to-earth owner Shaul invited us back for Omakase. After being seated, Shaul made an appearance tableside and greeted us warmly, asking quite humbly if we would mind trying some new dishes that would be on the menu in the coming months. Who were we to argue?
Zenkichi Omakase
Sake Flight
A small sampling of three varieties of sake from Zenkichi's extensive list. The progression of flavors from the first to third glasses was very pleasing and grew appropriately in complexity from bold citrus tastes to more subdued and bitter hints. On a personal note, sake is quickly becoming my favorite alcoholic drink - I find it easier to distinguish the notes in flavor far more easily than wine and thus a bit easier for me to dive into.
Miso Soup
An oldie but a goodie. Familiar, yet better than most - the kicker being the rich addition of fried tofu, almost emulating the texture of pork.
Homemade Tofu with Uni
Compliments of the house, this was a very nice surprise. Quite possibly the best tofu I've ever tasted. Silky and creamy, delicate, and slightly sweet. Served in a light bonito broth with a beautiful piece of bright orange uni atop the cloudy white mound.
Sashimi - Maguro Carpaccio, Monkfish Liver, and Sea Bream
Another expertly planned progression of flavors. The tuna was light, sweet, and very flavorful, served over a julienne of vegetables with a light citrus dressing. A real treat to be able to enjoy the monkfish liver, which has a taste very reminiscent of crab, though a texture that resembles fois gras. I was unfamiliar with sea bream, but it was a nice closing taste, being firm and full of texture as well as flavor.
Arugala Salad - Maitake Mushrooms, Roast Organic Free-Range Chicken, and Sesame Dressing
For such a simple salad, this was remarkably flavorful. The chicken was more "chicken-y" than any other I've eaten and a thankfully generous portion of fat was kept untrimmed from the meat.
Tempura - Uni wrapped in Fluke, Tempura Sauce, and Green Tea Salt
As good as the tempura was on its own (perfectly crisp and light, with a chewy, rich center), the real winner for me was the green tea salt, which tasted quite exactly as it is described. The waitress revealed that it's a simple matter of combing instant green tea with regular salt. Who knew?
Grilled Black Cod - Miso Glaze, Shiitake Mushrooms
One of our favorites from the previous trip. A bit of a disappointment on this night, however. The flavor was there, and quite delicious I might add - the sweet and slightly charred outer skin atop juicy flesh is really to die for. The issue (really the only negative comment of the night) arose in the form of about a dozen bones that had not been removed. A real shame, as all I wanted to do was devour this delicious morsel, but alas I was forced to remain patient, careful to chew slowly lest I poke myself.
Pork Kakuni - Slow Braised Pork Belly in Broth
In my humble opinion, the star of the night. It's tough to go wrong with pork belly. This version was served in a clay pot, swimming in a gentle broth that was both sweet and complex, with notes of mustard. Zenkichi describes this item as having been braised for three days.
Mishima Beef Sushi - Garlic/Ginger Sauce
Contrary to the no-sushi motto, we did receive a taste in this great beef dish. A single piece of nigiri each, the beef was lightly seared and almost melted in your mouth. The garlic/ginger sauce was probably the most in-your-face flavor of the night - a nice way to close the main courses.
Dessert - Dark Chocolate Sesame Shochu Cake with Almond/Pistachio Brittle and Yogurt Honey Ice Cream with Yuzu/Honey Syrup
Not the most traditional Japanese desserts, but heavenly nonetheless. The chocolate cake was moist and rich, the brittle acting as a perfect compliment. As much a chocolate fanatic as I am, I equally enjoyed the yogurt ice cream, which was just sour enough and made all the more heavenly by the yuzu/honey syrup. A perfect finish for the meal.
Zenkichi describes itself as "a modern Japanese brasserie with an authentic dining experience of popular Tokyo establishments." Contrary to what most Americans believe Japanese cuisine to be, Zenkichi offers little to no sushi. Rather, the cuisine is presented in the form of Tokyo-style small plates, made specifically with the idea of sake-pairing. Ingredients are seasonal and the Omakase menu changes every five weeks.
Decorum
A nice change from the typically flashy ultra-modern New York hot spots, Zenkichi is rather subdued and intimate. Stepping inside the unadorned doorway, one immediately feels as if they've left the streets of the city. The stone walkways, wood-paneled walls, and bamboo decorations could easily make this place feel like a glorified theme-restaurant. Thankfully, the taste with which the restaurant was designed puts any of these initial fears to rest. The addition of quiet jazz was a nice touch, as opposed to the possibly stereotypical use of traditional Japanese music. The newly opened Winter Garden was a treat to dine in.
Service
The staff appears to be highly trained and waits on diners in the manner of most formal Japanese restaurants. They all seem very knowledgeable and happy to explain some of the more challenging items on the menu. A nice touch includes a button on each table that can be pressed to call the waiter. This helps further the notion of privacy and intimacy that this style of restaurant promotes.
Experience
After a very enjoyable first time here, wherein we were treated to hors d'oeuvres and sake, the accomodating and down-to-earth owner Shaul invited us back for Omakase. After being seated, Shaul made an appearance tableside and greeted us warmly, asking quite humbly if we would mind trying some new dishes that would be on the menu in the coming months. Who were we to argue?
Zenkichi Omakase
Sake Flight
A small sampling of three varieties of sake from Zenkichi's extensive list. The progression of flavors from the first to third glasses was very pleasing and grew appropriately in complexity from bold citrus tastes to more subdued and bitter hints. On a personal note, sake is quickly becoming my favorite alcoholic drink - I find it easier to distinguish the notes in flavor far more easily than wine and thus a bit easier for me to dive into.
Miso Soup
An oldie but a goodie. Familiar, yet better than most - the kicker being the rich addition of fried tofu, almost emulating the texture of pork.
Homemade Tofu with Uni
Compliments of the house, this was a very nice surprise. Quite possibly the best tofu I've ever tasted. Silky and creamy, delicate, and slightly sweet. Served in a light bonito broth with a beautiful piece of bright orange uni atop the cloudy white mound.
Sashimi - Maguro Carpaccio, Monkfish Liver, and Sea Bream
Another expertly planned progression of flavors. The tuna was light, sweet, and very flavorful, served over a julienne of vegetables with a light citrus dressing. A real treat to be able to enjoy the monkfish liver, which has a taste very reminiscent of crab, though a texture that resembles fois gras. I was unfamiliar with sea bream, but it was a nice closing taste, being firm and full of texture as well as flavor.
Arugala Salad - Maitake Mushrooms, Roast Organic Free-Range Chicken, and Sesame Dressing
For such a simple salad, this was remarkably flavorful. The chicken was more "chicken-y" than any other I've eaten and a thankfully generous portion of fat was kept untrimmed from the meat.
Tempura - Uni wrapped in Fluke, Tempura Sauce, and Green Tea Salt
As good as the tempura was on its own (perfectly crisp and light, with a chewy, rich center), the real winner for me was the green tea salt, which tasted quite exactly as it is described. The waitress revealed that it's a simple matter of combing instant green tea with regular salt. Who knew?
Grilled Black Cod - Miso Glaze, Shiitake Mushrooms
One of our favorites from the previous trip. A bit of a disappointment on this night, however. The flavor was there, and quite delicious I might add - the sweet and slightly charred outer skin atop juicy flesh is really to die for. The issue (really the only negative comment of the night) arose in the form of about a dozen bones that had not been removed. A real shame, as all I wanted to do was devour this delicious morsel, but alas I was forced to remain patient, careful to chew slowly lest I poke myself.
Pork Kakuni - Slow Braised Pork Belly in Broth
In my humble opinion, the star of the night. It's tough to go wrong with pork belly. This version was served in a clay pot, swimming in a gentle broth that was both sweet and complex, with notes of mustard. Zenkichi describes this item as having been braised for three days.
Mishima Beef Sushi - Garlic/Ginger Sauce
Contrary to the no-sushi motto, we did receive a taste in this great beef dish. A single piece of nigiri each, the beef was lightly seared and almost melted in your mouth. The garlic/ginger sauce was probably the most in-your-face flavor of the night - a nice way to close the main courses.
Dessert - Dark Chocolate Sesame Shochu Cake with Almond/Pistachio Brittle and Yogurt Honey Ice Cream with Yuzu/Honey Syrup
Not the most traditional Japanese desserts, but heavenly nonetheless. The chocolate cake was moist and rich, the brittle acting as a perfect compliment. As much a chocolate fanatic as I am, I equally enjoyed the yogurt ice cream, which was just sour enough and made all the more heavenly by the yuzu/honey syrup. A perfect finish for the meal.
Introduction
Food is about more than flavor. It is more than the sum of its ingredients. Nothing like it has the power to invigorate, to lift our spirits, to remind us of good times, to inspire, and to comfort. It is perhaps ironic that one of the basic requirements of life can also be one of its utmost pleasures. The activity of preparing food is one of those rare combinations of art and science that transcends both - and how zen that we consume the results! Food is an experience wholly unto itself, though it is always best when shared with others. To that end, I share with you my adventures.
A man more knowledgeable than I once said,
"...the real power of food isn't in its ability to thrill or fill or surprise or please. It's in its ability to connect us to ourselves, to each other, to our heritage, to our land, maybe to our future. Food's a road, and it can lead you to a discovery or two if you let it. Ride hard, eat hardy, be thankful."
I couldn't agree more...
A man more knowledgeable than I once said,
"...the real power of food isn't in its ability to thrill or fill or surprise or please. It's in its ability to connect us to ourselves, to each other, to our heritage, to our land, maybe to our future. Food's a road, and it can lead you to a discovery or two if you let it. Ride hard, eat hardy, be thankful."
I couldn't agree more...
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