My cousin Noel is really a fantastic cook. I've reflected since last night on what deeper meaning I can find in that statement. I don't think it can be considered a coincidence that this many members of my family all share a passion for food, cooking, and dining. I'm also not certain that this is strictly a matter of being exposed to food through my family, though that must certainly be a contributing factor. I believe it to be something inexorably passed on through my family's blood, and through many family's bloodlines. I believe that passion for food is a perfect combination of genetic and cultural heritage. Not nature vs. nurture, but more nature + nurture, where the sum is greater than the individual parts.
I regret that my Grandfather succumbed to Alzheimer's Disease when I was young. I remember little about him before he began fading. The majority of my spotty recollections are filled in with stories recounted by my Mother. I can picture the things he did, but I cannot remember them. When I think back to my time with him I think of the disease first, and that makes me very sad. I wish he were alive and in a healthy enough mental state to participate in the passionate, yet casually meandering evening of food I experienced last night with my family.
September 20, 2009
August 13, 2009
Adam & Cheryl's Engagement Celebration Dinner
July 25th, 2009
Amuse
Tuna Ball, Crystallized Ginger
Spiced Valencia Orange Segment, Aged Balsamic
Homemade Ginger Ale
First
Striped Bass Sashimi with Soy Syrup & Chili Oil
Second
Asian Gazpacho, Cilantro-Jicama Cream
Third
Spaghetti with Crab, Lemon & Jalapeño
Main
Swordfish Paillard with Leeks & White Grapefruit
Dessert
Peaches in Apricot-Brandy Sauce
White Wine Granité
June 29, 2009
Zenkichi
Another fantastic night at Zenkichi! We were invited to a special preview of the summer Omakase being served at a discounted price during restaurant week. Our third trip to Zenkichi, I think this was the best.
We were escorted upstairs and sat in a small corner booth. I can't describe the level of my enjoyment of Japanese architecture. The seating at Zenkichi really reflected all the little details I love - it is the perfect balance between feeling cozy/enclosed/secluded and not feeling cramped/confined/restricted. The booths lend a welcome degree of privacy, but virtually instant service is at your fingertipes in the form of a call button on each table that summons the waitstaff.
Grated Salmon with Soybeans
A nice little taste, compliments of the house.
Chilled Edamame Soup
What a spectacular dish. One of the most refreshing and unique tastes I've eaten in a very long time. The perfect thing to sip on a hot summer day. This is one of those foods that one feels as if he could eat it forever and never lose interest. A slight smoky flavor underlined the soup, most likely from a stock made with a bacon base.
Raw Tasting Plate
Hiramasa Amberjack sashimi, Unagi and Japanese cucumber in dashi, and Maguro carpaccio with green yuzu dressing. Three great preparations, very light and summery.
Kobe Beef Tataki Salad
This was good, but probably my least favorite of the night. The beef was almost raw and was of melt-in-your-mouth consistency, but I would have liked something a little more interesting in the way of the greens, which were basically just a spring mix. The sweet potato chips were nice though.
Blue Shrimp Tempura
A single large shrimp and snow pea pod. Perfectly cooked and straight out of the fryer, the shrimp was virtually a mousse inside. Just wonderful, and served with the great green tea salt that we enjoyed at our previous visit!
Berkshire Pork & Summer Vegetables
Thinly sliced shabu-shabu style Berkshire pork loin lightly boiled and served with sesame dressing. Lightly peanuty in flavor, this was quite good.
Salmon in Saikyo Miso
I just love the sweet, sticky flavor of miso-glazed fish. The salmon was particularly good this way, though not quite as juicy as the black cod that had undergone a similar preparation the last time we dined here.
Madai Donburi
Sea Bream Sashimi served over sushi rice. It was nice to finish the meal with the slight heaviness of the rice.
Dessert
This was probably the best course (although the Edamame Soup was very close). We ordered a Frozen Black Sesame Mousse that was silky, rich, and just absolutely terrific, and a Banana Bavaroit, layered with dark chocolate and pistachios. As if that weren't enough we were treated to a complimentary Grapefruit Gelee, favorite dessert of the owner. The Gelee was accompanied by a sweet glass of dessert sake, on the house.
We were escorted upstairs and sat in a small corner booth. I can't describe the level of my enjoyment of Japanese architecture. The seating at Zenkichi really reflected all the little details I love - it is the perfect balance between feeling cozy/enclosed/secluded and not feeling cramped/confined/restricted. The booths lend a welcome degree of privacy, but virtually instant service is at your fingertipes in the form of a call button on each table that summons the waitstaff.
Grated Salmon with Soybeans
A nice little taste, compliments of the house.
Chilled Edamame Soup
What a spectacular dish. One of the most refreshing and unique tastes I've eaten in a very long time. The perfect thing to sip on a hot summer day. This is one of those foods that one feels as if he could eat it forever and never lose interest. A slight smoky flavor underlined the soup, most likely from a stock made with a bacon base.
Raw Tasting Plate
Hiramasa Amberjack sashimi, Unagi and Japanese cucumber in dashi, and Maguro carpaccio with green yuzu dressing. Three great preparations, very light and summery.
Kobe Beef Tataki Salad
This was good, but probably my least favorite of the night. The beef was almost raw and was of melt-in-your-mouth consistency, but I would have liked something a little more interesting in the way of the greens, which were basically just a spring mix. The sweet potato chips were nice though.
Blue Shrimp Tempura
A single large shrimp and snow pea pod. Perfectly cooked and straight out of the fryer, the shrimp was virtually a mousse inside. Just wonderful, and served with the great green tea salt that we enjoyed at our previous visit!
Berkshire Pork & Summer Vegetables
Thinly sliced shabu-shabu style Berkshire pork loin lightly boiled and served with sesame dressing. Lightly peanuty in flavor, this was quite good.
Salmon in Saikyo Miso
I just love the sweet, sticky flavor of miso-glazed fish. The salmon was particularly good this way, though not quite as juicy as the black cod that had undergone a similar preparation the last time we dined here.
Madai Donburi
Sea Bream Sashimi served over sushi rice. It was nice to finish the meal with the slight heaviness of the rice.
Dessert
This was probably the best course (although the Edamame Soup was very close). We ordered a Frozen Black Sesame Mousse that was silky, rich, and just absolutely terrific, and a Banana Bavaroit, layered with dark chocolate and pistachios. As if that weren't enough we were treated to a complimentary Grapefruit Gelee, favorite dessert of the owner. The Gelee was accompanied by a sweet glass of dessert sake, on the house.
May 12, 2009
Montalbano's Marvelous Mojo
Thank you to all the organizers, competitors, and judges who made the 2009 Marvel Chili Cook-Off a fantastic time! Below is the recipe for my 1st Place and People's Choice award-winning chili - Montalbano's Marvelous Mojo!
Base
4 lbs Ground Chuck (preferably organic and freshly ground)
1 lb Bacon, finely diced (preferably organic/preservative free)
1 Green Bell Pepper, finely diced
1 Large Yellow Onion, finely diced
6 Cloves Garlic, minced
2 Chipotle Peppers in Adobo, finely diced + 2 Tb of the Adobo Sauce
18 oz (2+ Cups) Low-Sodium Beef Broth
12 oz (1 1/2 Cups) Medium Ale (I used Rogue Dead Guy)
16 oz (2 Cups) Tomato Sauce (homemade preferred, or substitute a good brand of canned, crushed plum tomatoes)
Drop 1
2 Tb Onion Powder
2 Tb Garlic Powder
2 Tb Chili Powder
4 Bay Leaves
Drop 2
3 Tb Light Chili Powder
4 tsp Cumin
1 tsp Black Pepper
2 Tb Unsweetened Cocoa Powder
1 tsp Cayenne Pepper
1 Cube Beef Bullion
1 Cube Chicken Bullion
2 Tb Dark Brown Sugar
Drop 3
2 tsp Cumin
Juice of 2 Limes
Salt to taste
Hot Sauce (optional depending on spice preference - it will already be fairly spicy from the Cayenne and Chipotles. I additionally used a single drop of Blair's Mega Death)
In a heavy 8 quart pot, render the bacon over low heat until it is cooked through, but not totally crispy. Remove the bacon, drain on paper towels, and set aside (this will be added back in later on, or you could optionally reserve it to be used as a condiment during serving). Add the Green Pepper, Onion, Garlic, and Chipotles and cook over low heat in the bacon fat until translucent. Remove the vegetables and set aside. Add the Ground Chuck and brown in the remaining fat (add Olive Oil if not enough fat remains). Season lightly with Salt and Pepper.
Add the bacon and vegetables back to the pot and stir to combine. Drain any excess fat, then add the Ale, Beef Broth, and Tomato Sauce. Bring to a boil, then add the first Drop. Stir, cover the pot, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 1 hour. Check and stir occasionally to make sure your heat is not too high.
Add the second Drop, stir, cover the pot again and continue simmering for 30 minutes.
Add the third Drop, stir and continue simmering for 15 minutes, uncovered. Check for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Serve the chili simply by itself or with your favorite condiments. I prefer some finely grated sharp white Vermont cheddar.
Base
4 lbs Ground Chuck (preferably organic and freshly ground)
1 lb Bacon, finely diced (preferably organic/preservative free)
1 Green Bell Pepper, finely diced
1 Large Yellow Onion, finely diced
6 Cloves Garlic, minced
2 Chipotle Peppers in Adobo, finely diced + 2 Tb of the Adobo Sauce
18 oz (2+ Cups) Low-Sodium Beef Broth
12 oz (1 1/2 Cups) Medium Ale (I used Rogue Dead Guy)
16 oz (2 Cups) Tomato Sauce (homemade preferred, or substitute a good brand of canned, crushed plum tomatoes)
Drop 1
2 Tb Onion Powder
2 Tb Garlic Powder
2 Tb Chili Powder
4 Bay Leaves
Drop 2
3 Tb Light Chili Powder
4 tsp Cumin
1 tsp Black Pepper
2 Tb Unsweetened Cocoa Powder
1 tsp Cayenne Pepper
1 Cube Beef Bullion
1 Cube Chicken Bullion
2 Tb Dark Brown Sugar
Drop 3
2 tsp Cumin
Juice of 2 Limes
Salt to taste
Hot Sauce (optional depending on spice preference - it will already be fairly spicy from the Cayenne and Chipotles. I additionally used a single drop of Blair's Mega Death)
In a heavy 8 quart pot, render the bacon over low heat until it is cooked through, but not totally crispy. Remove the bacon, drain on paper towels, and set aside (this will be added back in later on, or you could optionally reserve it to be used as a condiment during serving). Add the Green Pepper, Onion, Garlic, and Chipotles and cook over low heat in the bacon fat until translucent. Remove the vegetables and set aside. Add the Ground Chuck and brown in the remaining fat (add Olive Oil if not enough fat remains). Season lightly with Salt and Pepper.
Add the bacon and vegetables back to the pot and stir to combine. Drain any excess fat, then add the Ale, Beef Broth, and Tomato Sauce. Bring to a boil, then add the first Drop. Stir, cover the pot, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 1 hour. Check and stir occasionally to make sure your heat is not too high.
Add the second Drop, stir, cover the pot again and continue simmering for 30 minutes.
Add the third Drop, stir and continue simmering for 15 minutes, uncovered. Check for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Serve the chili simply by itself or with your favorite condiments. I prefer some finely grated sharp white Vermont cheddar.
May 4, 2009
Becco
One of the great Italian restaurants of the immortal Lidia Bastianich, Becco is a fantastic place to hit on a moment's notice to get some great pasta on a reasonably low budget. The always packed juggernaut of Italian food is conveniently located in the pre/post theater district on 46th St between 8th and 9th Aves.
Best known for their nightly special, the "Sinfonia Di Pasta", Becco offers a huge selection of Italian classics. Their trademark dish is an immense Osso Bucco, however the Sinfonia is the way to go if you want to gorge for a low price. It begins with a choice between Casear Salad or a sampling of various Antipasti, including marinated vegetables, cheese, and fish. Then you receive unlimited tableside service of three daily rotating pastas. On this particular evening I enjoyed Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil, Rigatoni alla Bolognese with Fresh Peas, and Spinach Ravioli with Butter and Marjoram. Fantastic! The key is to have them completely fill your plate up at the end of the meal even if you're full, so you can take the leftovers home.
Normally the above would be more than enough, but tonight they were offering an appetizer special of Burrata! Of course I had to jump at the chance to enjoy this rare Italian specialty. Burrata is quite simply a pouch of fresh mozzarella stuffed with additional shreds of cream-soaked mozzarella. The pouch is tied at the top and the interior oozes out when cut. It must be eaten within 24-48 hours, so this delicacy is quite rare indeed, and if found in the U.S. it is typically an overnight import from Italy. Well, needless to say it was insanely delicious, served atop a piece of garlic toast and sauteed broccoli rabe.
One final note that makes Becco more than worth while is the $25 per bottle assortment of great wines. Also, despite the sardine-can-like degree of crowdedness, I have never had to wait more than a few minutes for a table.
Best known for their nightly special, the "Sinfonia Di Pasta", Becco offers a huge selection of Italian classics. Their trademark dish is an immense Osso Bucco, however the Sinfonia is the way to go if you want to gorge for a low price. It begins with a choice between Casear Salad or a sampling of various Antipasti, including marinated vegetables, cheese, and fish. Then you receive unlimited tableside service of three daily rotating pastas. On this particular evening I enjoyed Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil, Rigatoni alla Bolognese with Fresh Peas, and Spinach Ravioli with Butter and Marjoram. Fantastic! The key is to have them completely fill your plate up at the end of the meal even if you're full, so you can take the leftovers home.
Normally the above would be more than enough, but tonight they were offering an appetizer special of Burrata! Of course I had to jump at the chance to enjoy this rare Italian specialty. Burrata is quite simply a pouch of fresh mozzarella stuffed with additional shreds of cream-soaked mozzarella. The pouch is tied at the top and the interior oozes out when cut. It must be eaten within 24-48 hours, so this delicacy is quite rare indeed, and if found in the U.S. it is typically an overnight import from Italy. Well, needless to say it was insanely delicious, served atop a piece of garlic toast and sauteed broccoli rabe.
One final note that makes Becco more than worth while is the $25 per bottle assortment of great wines. Also, despite the sardine-can-like degree of crowdedness, I have never had to wait more than a few minutes for a table.
April 29, 2009
Fette Sau
After literally years of being told I must visit this former auto-garage-turned-BBQ joint, I finally made it to Fette Sau. The place is fun, with a nice service gimmick - that being the whole "food served directly on the tray" thing. I can see seating being a nightmare on the more lovely spring and summer days (the majority of seats being picknick tables outside in the alley), though after the incomparable amount of time I've spent waiting for tables at Dinosaur, I have to say FS was quite nice.
The food was pretty good overall - in comparison to Dinosaur, I'd say it was a mixed bag. Some things I liked better, others I did not.
Ribs - these were good, but not great. I like Dinosaur's better, which tend to be juicier and are cooked with BBQ sauce. The version at FS were a little too charred on the outside (I like a good bark, but this was overcooked) and a bit dry on the inside.
Pork Shoulder - fantastic! Juicy and delicious through and through. Needed no sauce whatsoever.
Pork Belly - an interesting one. Being the fan of pork belly that I am, I immediately knew I must try BBQd belly, though the results were a bit mixed for me. Honestly it was the single most delicious thing on my plate (err, tray), but when you're paying by the lb, I don't know if choosing something that's 80% fat is the best way to go. I have to say though, those extra pieces of fat went great on the rolls, which were perfectly soft and airy.
Sausage Links - not totally sure what meat they used in these (my guess is it was pork), but they were good. Fairly juicy, a little spicy, and a light snap when you bit into them.
Potato Salad - this was a more German-style potato salad, meaning it was vinegar based as opposed to mayonnaise based. I really enjoyed it - tons of flavor from all the oil, vinegar, and whole grain mustard.
Burnt End Baked Beans - deep red in color, a touch spicy, and filled with flavor. The addition of bay leaves and the burnt ends were very nice, however I tend to enjoy a slightly less al dente texture to my baked beans. I suppose it's a good thing that they weren't "mushy", but it made the dish feel a bit raw to me.
Half-Sour Pickles - I have no idea if the restaurant makes these themselves or if they simply buy them. At first taste I enjoyed them quite a bit, as I love a good half-sour (my favorite pickle). But after a while I did notice how overly salty these were. I do know that Dinosaur makes their own pickles, and I do quite prefer those.
Overall I enjoyed the place quite a bit - the rotating menu of meats is a major reason to go back. Can't wait for a return visit!
The food was pretty good overall - in comparison to Dinosaur, I'd say it was a mixed bag. Some things I liked better, others I did not.
Ribs - these were good, but not great. I like Dinosaur's better, which tend to be juicier and are cooked with BBQ sauce. The version at FS were a little too charred on the outside (I like a good bark, but this was overcooked) and a bit dry on the inside.
Pork Shoulder - fantastic! Juicy and delicious through and through. Needed no sauce whatsoever.
Pork Belly - an interesting one. Being the fan of pork belly that I am, I immediately knew I must try BBQd belly, though the results were a bit mixed for me. Honestly it was the single most delicious thing on my plate (err, tray), but when you're paying by the lb, I don't know if choosing something that's 80% fat is the best way to go. I have to say though, those extra pieces of fat went great on the rolls, which were perfectly soft and airy.
Sausage Links - not totally sure what meat they used in these (my guess is it was pork), but they were good. Fairly juicy, a little spicy, and a light snap when you bit into them.
Potato Salad - this was a more German-style potato salad, meaning it was vinegar based as opposed to mayonnaise based. I really enjoyed it - tons of flavor from all the oil, vinegar, and whole grain mustard.
Burnt End Baked Beans - deep red in color, a touch spicy, and filled with flavor. The addition of bay leaves and the burnt ends were very nice, however I tend to enjoy a slightly less al dente texture to my baked beans. I suppose it's a good thing that they weren't "mushy", but it made the dish feel a bit raw to me.
Half-Sour Pickles - I have no idea if the restaurant makes these themselves or if they simply buy them. At first taste I enjoyed them quite a bit, as I love a good half-sour (my favorite pickle). But after a while I did notice how overly salty these were. I do know that Dinosaur makes their own pickles, and I do quite prefer those.
Overall I enjoyed the place quite a bit - the rotating menu of meats is a major reason to go back. Can't wait for a return visit!
April 2, 2009
Del Post - Collezione Grand Tasting Menu
There are some things that can only be experienced on such a rare occasion as one's annual company bonus. I will probably not be able to afford a meal like Del Posto's Collezione menu again for at least another year, but that is fine. After all, one can only handle such an event in spare doses.
This evening was quite perfect - service, food, atmosphere...all the things that make Del Posto my favorite "fancy" restaurant. The concept for this "Collection" menu was a vast array of small plates, meant to be enjoyed in any order or combination that the diner wished. Each course represented a variety of tastes of Italian cuisine, both traditional and modern.
Assaggi
Orzetto - a single shot of smooth vegetable soup with drops of liquid dark chocolate on top
Candied Corn - small crispy candied corn ball
Il Panino - tiny sliver of panini: crisp, buttery bread and ham
Suppli Di Marchesi - toasted rice ball
Truffled Tuna - ball of tuna carpaccio with white and black truffle crust
Palla Di Fegato - foie gras ball surrounded by a layer of fig marmalade, mascarpone cheese, and a crunchy nut crust
De Bartoli "Vecchio Samperi," NV Marsala
Antipasti
Smoked Testa Tortino - disc of crispy pork cheek meat
Sardine Beccaficco - whole fresh sardine with crisp breadcrumbs and candied citrus
Terrina Di Rapini - terrine of broccoli rabe
Mozzarella with Ossetra Caviar - freshly made mozzarella with a generous scoop of caviar
Chilled Tomato Marmellata - tomato marmalade: begins in frozen form and melts as the course progresses, creating alternating textures to enjoy with the other items
Krug Grand Cuvee MV Champagne
Primi
Capsule Di Tortellini Alla Francescana - an "inside-out" tortellini: looked like an egg yolk, and rolled around the serving bowl like a large drop of yellow mercury - instructed to shoot it, the capsule breaks in the diner's mouth and releases a piece of pasta contained inside
Vacca Rossa Risotto With Black Truffle - served in the same bowl once the Capsule is downed, a fragrant and heady truffle risotto (my single favorite dish of the night)
Linguine Alla Vongole - linguine with imported Italian clams: a single dried hot pepper was also served, allowing the diner to crush between their fingers and add the desired amount of heat
Planeta Chardonnay 2005 Sicilia
Raviolini Velati - two tiny bitter red cabbage-stuffed ravioli served with a pork reduction and piece of the pork from the sauce
Borgogno Barolo Chinato Piemonte
Pesce
Dungeness Crab Gratinato, Trippa Di Merluzzo, & Cesare's Tomato Brodetto - the diner is served a shallow bowl containing several pieces of crispy cod tripe - into this bowl, meat from a whole dungeness crab is served tableside, followed by a pouring of spicy tomato broth to create an "Italian Bouillabaiss"
Baccala Mantecato with Perilla - a creamy piece of salt cod, topped with Asian basil
Zenzero Elisir - a small shot of sweet ginger elixir
Bastianich "Tocai Plus" 2005 Friuli
Carne
Short Seared Short Rib, Polpettina Di Osso Buco, Crochetta Di Patate - a seared short rib carved tableside, plated with a single osso buco meatball topped with gremolatta, and several crisp and wafer-thin potato croquettes
Brisket Fiocco - jerky made from dried brisket
Insalata Misticanza - a simple mixed salad of greens, thinly sliced mushrooms and potatos
Horseradish Semifreddo - semi-frozen horseradish custard
Joe's Spicy Ketchup - Joe Bastianich's own recipe
Feudi Di San Gregorio Serpico 2003 Campania
Formaggi
Baked La Tur, Pumpkin Crostata, Chocolate Affumicato, Nuts & Beans - a mixture of cow, sheep, and goat cheese baked in fig leaves, served tableside atop bitter chocolate sauce, with a slice of crispy pumpkin tart, and topped with a sprinkling of nuts & beans
Apple Zuppetta - a tall shot of sweet apple and celery tonic
Niedermayr "Aureus" 2005 Alto Adige
Dolce
Blood Orange Bellini - blood orange sorbet molded within a grapefruit rind, served atop a bowl of edible liqueur-infused ice shavings
Zabaglione Frutta Secca - single mouthful of dried fruits, drizzled with a zabaglione sauce prepared personally by the pastry chef at the restaurant's serving station
Chocolate Croccantino, Salsa Di Carota - flourless chocolate cake served tableside atop a sweet carrot sauce, plated with two liquid-center chocolate truffles
D'Oliveira Boal Madeira 1968 Portugal
Post-Dessert
Fregolatta, Insalate Di Erbe - almond cookie served personally by the pastry chef - the chef breaks the cookie in the center of the table with the back of a spoon - as per Italian tradition, the further the cookie pieces fall across the table, the better the diners' luck - the cookie pieces are then sprinkled with a shower of fresh herbs and edible flower petals - the pastry chef suggests the diners eat a bite of cookie with a bite of herbs, claiming the combination "will taste like the best Fruity Pebbles you've ever eaten" (not so sure about that, but it was still fun...) - an additionally fun element involved one of the head waiters mentioning that he enjoyed seeing diners actually eating the cookie off the table (as they are meant to), as opposed to the more typical stuffy clientele who only touch the cookie pieces that stay on the plate
Digestivi - three progressively more complex tastings of grappa
* A final treat comes in the form of gift bags, including a "light lunch" for the next day made from different items the diners enjoyed that evening - a small panini filled with the brisket jerky, fresh mozzarella, and broccoli rabe, a small almond cake, and a little bottle of bitter Italian citrus soda
This evening was quite perfect - service, food, atmosphere...all the things that make Del Posto my favorite "fancy" restaurant. The concept for this "Collection" menu was a vast array of small plates, meant to be enjoyed in any order or combination that the diner wished. Each course represented a variety of tastes of Italian cuisine, both traditional and modern.
Assaggi
Orzetto - a single shot of smooth vegetable soup with drops of liquid dark chocolate on top
Candied Corn - small crispy candied corn ball
Il Panino - tiny sliver of panini: crisp, buttery bread and ham
Suppli Di Marchesi - toasted rice ball
Truffled Tuna - ball of tuna carpaccio with white and black truffle crust
Palla Di Fegato - foie gras ball surrounded by a layer of fig marmalade, mascarpone cheese, and a crunchy nut crust
De Bartoli "Vecchio Samperi," NV Marsala
Antipasti
Smoked Testa Tortino - disc of crispy pork cheek meat
Sardine Beccaficco - whole fresh sardine with crisp breadcrumbs and candied citrus
Terrina Di Rapini - terrine of broccoli rabe
Mozzarella with Ossetra Caviar - freshly made mozzarella with a generous scoop of caviar
Chilled Tomato Marmellata - tomato marmalade: begins in frozen form and melts as the course progresses, creating alternating textures to enjoy with the other items
Krug Grand Cuvee MV Champagne
Primi
Capsule Di Tortellini Alla Francescana - an "inside-out" tortellini: looked like an egg yolk, and rolled around the serving bowl like a large drop of yellow mercury - instructed to shoot it, the capsule breaks in the diner's mouth and releases a piece of pasta contained inside
Vacca Rossa Risotto With Black Truffle - served in the same bowl once the Capsule is downed, a fragrant and heady truffle risotto (my single favorite dish of the night)
Linguine Alla Vongole - linguine with imported Italian clams: a single dried hot pepper was also served, allowing the diner to crush between their fingers and add the desired amount of heat
Planeta Chardonnay 2005 Sicilia
Raviolini Velati - two tiny bitter red cabbage-stuffed ravioli served with a pork reduction and piece of the pork from the sauce
Borgogno Barolo Chinato Piemonte
Pesce
Dungeness Crab Gratinato, Trippa Di Merluzzo, & Cesare's Tomato Brodetto - the diner is served a shallow bowl containing several pieces of crispy cod tripe - into this bowl, meat from a whole dungeness crab is served tableside, followed by a pouring of spicy tomato broth to create an "Italian Bouillabaiss"
Baccala Mantecato with Perilla - a creamy piece of salt cod, topped with Asian basil
Zenzero Elisir - a small shot of sweet ginger elixir
Bastianich "Tocai Plus" 2005 Friuli
Carne
Short Seared Short Rib, Polpettina Di Osso Buco, Crochetta Di Patate - a seared short rib carved tableside, plated with a single osso buco meatball topped with gremolatta, and several crisp and wafer-thin potato croquettes
Brisket Fiocco - jerky made from dried brisket
Insalata Misticanza - a simple mixed salad of greens, thinly sliced mushrooms and potatos
Horseradish Semifreddo - semi-frozen horseradish custard
Joe's Spicy Ketchup - Joe Bastianich's own recipe
Feudi Di San Gregorio Serpico 2003 Campania
Formaggi
Baked La Tur, Pumpkin Crostata, Chocolate Affumicato, Nuts & Beans - a mixture of cow, sheep, and goat cheese baked in fig leaves, served tableside atop bitter chocolate sauce, with a slice of crispy pumpkin tart, and topped with a sprinkling of nuts & beans
Apple Zuppetta - a tall shot of sweet apple and celery tonic
Niedermayr "Aureus" 2005 Alto Adige
Dolce
Blood Orange Bellini - blood orange sorbet molded within a grapefruit rind, served atop a bowl of edible liqueur-infused ice shavings
Zabaglione Frutta Secca - single mouthful of dried fruits, drizzled with a zabaglione sauce prepared personally by the pastry chef at the restaurant's serving station
Chocolate Croccantino, Salsa Di Carota - flourless chocolate cake served tableside atop a sweet carrot sauce, plated with two liquid-center chocolate truffles
D'Oliveira Boal Madeira 1968 Portugal
Post-Dessert
Fregolatta, Insalate Di Erbe - almond cookie served personally by the pastry chef - the chef breaks the cookie in the center of the table with the back of a spoon - as per Italian tradition, the further the cookie pieces fall across the table, the better the diners' luck - the cookie pieces are then sprinkled with a shower of fresh herbs and edible flower petals - the pastry chef suggests the diners eat a bite of cookie with a bite of herbs, claiming the combination "will taste like the best Fruity Pebbles you've ever eaten" (not so sure about that, but it was still fun...) - an additionally fun element involved one of the head waiters mentioning that he enjoyed seeing diners actually eating the cookie off the table (as they are meant to), as opposed to the more typical stuffy clientele who only touch the cookie pieces that stay on the plate
Digestivi - three progressively more complex tastings of grappa
* A final treat comes in the form of gift bags, including a "light lunch" for the next day made from different items the diners enjoyed that evening - a small panini filled with the brisket jerky, fresh mozzarella, and broccoli rabe, a small almond cake, and a little bottle of bitter Italian citrus soda
March 16, 2009
Peanut Event
What a night! Another great evening of food sampling, this time courtesy of the National Peanut Board. The event was set up in great gallery space in lower Manhattan. Several different stations showcased different chef's peanut-themed culinary inventions. Additionally, there was bar service and trays of hors'douvres going around.
Who would have guessed that a whole event could be based around peanuts? Well truth be told it didn't totally work...peanuts were an after thought in many of the dishes which, for the most part, were good regardless, just not peanut-y. I'm going to pretend this is Top Chef and do 3 winners and 3 losers for the night:
Winners
- Jicama Rolls with Peanuts and Fresh Basil
- Shrimp and Peanut Chowder
- Chiles Rellenos con Salpicon
For my money, the Chiles Rellenos were the unquestionable best. I loved that they were very spicy, not 'crowd-pleasing' spicy. They were rich and cheesy, and the peanuts really enhanced everything. I think I went back for sevenths...
Losers
- Lemon Rice
- Magic Bar
- Peanut Lemonade
What crap. 'Lemon Rice' was just rice with a couple peanuts thrown in. And it was dry to boot. The magic bar (made by the same crappy Indian chef as the awful Rice) was dry and tasted like sawdust. If I were eliminating a single chef, it would be that guy...but truly the worst thing of the night was the Peanut Lemonade. They were using Lemongrass as the Lemon flavor in this, but it was really just gross. The gritty texture from the (not so) peanut puree was really unappetizing. There was another drink called a Peanut Toritio but the Lemonade was enough to scare us away from any further Peanut themed alcoholic beverages...
Who would have guessed that a whole event could be based around peanuts? Well truth be told it didn't totally work...peanuts were an after thought in many of the dishes which, for the most part, were good regardless, just not peanut-y. I'm going to pretend this is Top Chef and do 3 winners and 3 losers for the night:
Winners
- Jicama Rolls with Peanuts and Fresh Basil
- Shrimp and Peanut Chowder
- Chiles Rellenos con Salpicon
For my money, the Chiles Rellenos were the unquestionable best. I loved that they were very spicy, not 'crowd-pleasing' spicy. They were rich and cheesy, and the peanuts really enhanced everything. I think I went back for sevenths...
Losers
- Lemon Rice
- Magic Bar
- Peanut Lemonade
What crap. 'Lemon Rice' was just rice with a couple peanuts thrown in. And it was dry to boot. The magic bar (made by the same crappy Indian chef as the awful Rice) was dry and tasted like sawdust. If I were eliminating a single chef, it would be that guy...but truly the worst thing of the night was the Peanut Lemonade. They were using Lemongrass as the Lemon flavor in this, but it was really just gross. The gritty texture from the (not so) peanut puree was really unappetizing. There was another drink called a Peanut Toritio but the Lemonade was enough to scare us away from any further Peanut themed alcoholic beverages...
January 2, 2009
Jean Georges
For those that don't know, my best friend since pre-school, Alex Tall, and I have engaged in a gourmet meal together every winter for the past several years. This year we decided to go straight to the top (or close to the top anyway), dining at Jean Georges, prestigious winner of countless culinary awards. The key to affording this exquisite meal was in skipping dinner service and instead going for lunch, where, for a relatively paltry $14 a plate, one can enjoy a variety of tastes and come away quite satisfied but not with totally empty pockets. After four courses, plus dessert, a glass of wine, a martini, tax, and tip, I was set back only $115, which is really very reasonable when considering the experience and quality of dining.
Amouse Bouche
A small trio of starters was served complimentary, including a shot of rich white soup, a piece of raw salmon wrapped around crisp vegetables with a creamy sauce, and a slighly spiced mandarin orange segment.
Bread
I need to make a special note to say how delicious the bread was. Served with delicious sweet butter and an extravegant sea salt.
Entrees
Darren
Japanese Snapper Carpaccio - Crystalized Ginger, White Radish, Olive Oil
Skate - Chateau Chalon Sauce
Pan Roasted Sweetbreads - Licorice, Grilled Pear, Lemon
Soy Glazed Beef Shortribs - Apple-Jalapeno Puree, Rosemary Crumbs
Alex
Kanpachi Sashimi - Sherry Vinaigrette, Toasted Pecans
Roasted Brussel Sprouts - Avocado, Pistachios, Mustard Vinaigrette
Arctic Char - Roasted Cremini Mushrooms, Jalapeno, Garlic
Pan Roasted Sweetbreads - Licorice, Grilled Pear, Lemon
Dessert
Darren
Chocolate:
Jean Georges Chocolate Cake - Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Warm Chocolate Gnocchi - Grapefruit, Gianduja, Basil
Alex
Caramel:
Chocolate Pop - Coffee-Cardamom Ice Cream
Caramel Curd - Dehydrated Sponge Cake, Roasted Pineapple
Post-Dessert
Complimentary chocolates, French macaroons, and homemade marshmallows were served tableside.
My dishes were all excellent. The crystalized ginger on the snapper was totally amazing, perfectly crunchy and delicate. The skate was super light and moist (I laughed a bit that they gave me a knife with it) and the chateau chalon sauce was rich, buttery, and nutty. A great preparation of sweetbreads and additionally fun to chew on the licorice wood for more flavor. The short rib was quite simply perfect...dark and crusty outside, pink and tender inside. I loved the chocolate dessert - nice that they paired a classic chocolate dish with a modern one.
Al didn't fare quite as well, but he was still overall very happy. His kanpachi was lacking in flavor a bit and he simply did not feel that it worked, though he was very pleased with his other dishes. The other big failure was the dessert, which I agreed was a bit of a mess. Though the chocolate pop redeemed it a bit, the caramel curd was displeasing to pretty much every sense. The real disappointment was the dehydrated sponge cake, which basically had the taste and texture of dried cardboard or stale cereal.
The post-dessert made up for it though - the chocolates, macaroons, and marshmallows were all out of this world. Frankly, the regular dessert prior to this wasn't all that necessary, but at only $8 it was hard to pass up.
Ultimately I would highly recommend coming here for lunch. You still get to sit in the beautiful formal dining room, and the prices for dishes are a fraction of the same thing during dinner service. There were a couple stumbles along the way, but the vast majority of our meal was incredible. I am already thinking of going back!
Amouse Bouche
A small trio of starters was served complimentary, including a shot of rich white soup, a piece of raw salmon wrapped around crisp vegetables with a creamy sauce, and a slighly spiced mandarin orange segment.
Bread
I need to make a special note to say how delicious the bread was. Served with delicious sweet butter and an extravegant sea salt.
Entrees
Darren
Japanese Snapper Carpaccio - Crystalized Ginger, White Radish, Olive Oil
Skate - Chateau Chalon Sauce
Pan Roasted Sweetbreads - Licorice, Grilled Pear, Lemon
Soy Glazed Beef Shortribs - Apple-Jalapeno Puree, Rosemary Crumbs
Alex
Kanpachi Sashimi - Sherry Vinaigrette, Toasted Pecans
Roasted Brussel Sprouts - Avocado, Pistachios, Mustard Vinaigrette
Arctic Char - Roasted Cremini Mushrooms, Jalapeno, Garlic
Pan Roasted Sweetbreads - Licorice, Grilled Pear, Lemon
Dessert
Darren
Chocolate:
Jean Georges Chocolate Cake - Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Warm Chocolate Gnocchi - Grapefruit, Gianduja, Basil
Alex
Caramel:
Chocolate Pop - Coffee-Cardamom Ice Cream
Caramel Curd - Dehydrated Sponge Cake, Roasted Pineapple
Post-Dessert
Complimentary chocolates, French macaroons, and homemade marshmallows were served tableside.
My dishes were all excellent. The crystalized ginger on the snapper was totally amazing, perfectly crunchy and delicate. The skate was super light and moist (I laughed a bit that they gave me a knife with it) and the chateau chalon sauce was rich, buttery, and nutty. A great preparation of sweetbreads and additionally fun to chew on the licorice wood for more flavor. The short rib was quite simply perfect...dark and crusty outside, pink and tender inside. I loved the chocolate dessert - nice that they paired a classic chocolate dish with a modern one.
Al didn't fare quite as well, but he was still overall very happy. His kanpachi was lacking in flavor a bit and he simply did not feel that it worked, though he was very pleased with his other dishes. The other big failure was the dessert, which I agreed was a bit of a mess. Though the chocolate pop redeemed it a bit, the caramel curd was displeasing to pretty much every sense. The real disappointment was the dehydrated sponge cake, which basically had the taste and texture of dried cardboard or stale cereal.
The post-dessert made up for it though - the chocolates, macaroons, and marshmallows were all out of this world. Frankly, the regular dessert prior to this wasn't all that necessary, but at only $8 it was hard to pass up.
Ultimately I would highly recommend coming here for lunch. You still get to sit in the beautiful formal dining room, and the prices for dishes are a fraction of the same thing during dinner service. There were a couple stumbles along the way, but the vast majority of our meal was incredible. I am already thinking of going back!
Xunta
Xunta is a Catalunan tapas-style restaurant in downtown Manhattan. This is the third time I've been there, and though it wasn't bad, it wasn't as good as my other visits. The food was fine, but one and a half waiters (one seemed like more of a bus boy) couldn't really handle the crowd that well and the dishes came out a bit too slowly, especially for tapas, which you really want to come one after another, not 15 minutes between tiny plates.
The food is pretty good, but the prices tend to add up quickly. The plates we enjoyed included...
- Datiles a Plancha con Toucino - Grilled Dates wrapped in Bacon
- Patacas Bravas - Spicy Crispy Potatoes
- Gambon a Plancha - Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with Head on
- Guicho de Rape a Plancha - Grilled Skewers of Monkfish over Rice
- Croquetas - Fried Bechamelle and Breadcrumb Croquettes
- Sardinas Asadas - Grilled whole Sardines
- Aceitonas Recheas - Green Olives Stuffed with Anchovy
- Queixo Manchego - Manchego Cheese
Out of all the above, the real winners are the Dates and the Sardines. I think I could eat bacon wrapped dates every day for the rest of my life. The sardines are crispy, hot, and served whole so you get the real taste of the sea. The Manchego cheese is also pretty great, as were the croquettes. The spicy items (patacas bravas and the monkfish) were good, but frankly I would expect a Catalunan restaurant to make their own hot sauce, not use Frank's Red Hot straight out of the bottle, which I am 99% sure is what they did. I wouldn't go back for the shrimp, which were tasty, but a bit overcooked and were prepared in such a way that didn't give you access to the brains in the head, which is the whole point of leaving the head on. I expected to be able to suck out the head juices, and was disappointed that I was not able to.
Ultimately I would recommend coming here, but not that often. I'm sure there are better tapas places out there, but I do like this place and once in a while it really hits the spot.
The food is pretty good, but the prices tend to add up quickly. The plates we enjoyed included...
- Datiles a Plancha con Toucino - Grilled Dates wrapped in Bacon
- Patacas Bravas - Spicy Crispy Potatoes
- Gambon a Plancha - Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with Head on
- Guicho de Rape a Plancha - Grilled Skewers of Monkfish over Rice
- Croquetas - Fried Bechamelle and Breadcrumb Croquettes
- Sardinas Asadas - Grilled whole Sardines
- Aceitonas Recheas - Green Olives Stuffed with Anchovy
- Queixo Manchego - Manchego Cheese
Out of all the above, the real winners are the Dates and the Sardines. I think I could eat bacon wrapped dates every day for the rest of my life. The sardines are crispy, hot, and served whole so you get the real taste of the sea. The Manchego cheese is also pretty great, as were the croquettes. The spicy items (patacas bravas and the monkfish) were good, but frankly I would expect a Catalunan restaurant to make their own hot sauce, not use Frank's Red Hot straight out of the bottle, which I am 99% sure is what they did. I wouldn't go back for the shrimp, which were tasty, but a bit overcooked and were prepared in such a way that didn't give you access to the brains in the head, which is the whole point of leaving the head on. I expected to be able to suck out the head juices, and was disappointed that I was not able to.
Ultimately I would recommend coming here, but not that often. I'm sure there are better tapas places out there, but I do like this place and once in a while it really hits the spot.
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