Located in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, The Aviary is NYC's offshoot of the original location in Chicago. Both destinations feature Grant Achatz and co.'s highly creative interpretations of cocktail service, alongside small plates of food. It was a place I had wanted to visit for some time, so Al and I decided to visit to celebrate his first successful year of parenthood.
The experience was both incredibly novel and expensive, though it wasn't entirely clear that the drinks served were actually any good beyond their gimmicky nature. In a word? It was...okay.
The Aviary
Mandarin Oriental, 80 Columbus Circle, New York, NY
aviarynyc.com
One thing can't be argued about The Aviary - the views from its 34th floor location are spectacular. The space is set up like a lounge, with cozy couches and easy chairs contributing to a comfortable, relaxed environment. Almost makes you forget how much you're paying!
This first drink was a complimentary offering - a frozen slush with coconut and other tropical flavors. I remarked that it tasted like something you would get at Gray's Papaya.
The distance of the birds from their starting point indicates how kooky the presentation of the drink will be. We opted for the three-course progression.
Michelada
Soy, Coriander, Japanese Whisky, Evil Twin
Despite the fancy ingredients, this basically tasted like a slightly lemony standard michelada. I would not have known anything special was in the drink or the salt rim.
Hop Scotch
Cacao, Raspberry, Hops, Scotch
Al really liked this one. It started off very whisky-forward with hints of chocolate. As the ice cubes melted, they imparted sweet and tart flavor into the drink.
Carrot Soup
This chilled soup was refreshing, spicy, and looked lovely. It did not pair at all well with our drinks though, making us question the use of the term "Food Pairings" as described on the menu.
Lovely Bunch
French Curry, Ancho, Chai, Reposado, Banana
This large and beautiful vessel was left on the table to infuse, with each small glassful tasting a bit stronger than the last. It had wonderful spiced banana notes, and was my favorite drink of the night, though the tequila flavor did not come through very strongly. Al insisted that I wasn't supposed to consume the entire offering of booze - I insisted otherwise!
In The Rocks
Apricot Marmalade, Sweet Vermouth, Rye, Sling Shot
A fun DIY drink and probably The Aviary's most famous. The liquid components are contained with a hollow ice sphere which the customer breaks using the little slingshot. Next, you stir it all up using the metal spoon/straw. Another great-tasting drink, more so than the gimmicky nature of its presentation might imply.
Crab Salad
This dish had some very nice tropical flavors and paired quite well with my drink (but not Al's).
Boom Goes The Dynamite
Rooibos, Vanilla, Violet, Ver Jus, Rums
The requisite dry ice presentation! It was a lot of fun to watch boil away over a couple minutes. I liked the flavor, but I had to wonder about how they put a ton of effort into a drink that basically tasted like Jägermeister.
The Aviary Abides
Nitro'd Black Russian, Cherry, Ice Cream
This presentation began with the ice cream by itself in a glass, over which the frothy liquid was then poured. I was advised to stir it all together. The ice cream on its own had almost no flavor, and, once mixed, I was left with something resembling an ice cream soda after all the ice cream has melted. Another disappointment.
Tortellini
Our last dish, which included beans, a thick foam, and crunchy breadcrumbs, was fantastic, but again did not remotely go with our two sweet dessert drinks.
The Aviary is an extremely unique experience, one which you pay rather exorbitantly for. Considering the cost, we left feeling disappointed, with too many misses where things didn't connect or felt like style over substance. If I were to ever return, I would definitely order a la carte.
