Saga had come up several times in prior years when Al and I considered fine dining restaurants at which to have our annual dinner. Other contenders this year included a return to the newly reopened Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, César, or Atomix. Though Atomix was our top choice, reservations are incredibly challenging to get, so we opted for the much more available Saga.
Saga, which is located on the 63rd floor of 70 Pine St, received rave reviews for several years, until its acclaimed chef and proprietor James Kent tragically died of a heart attack at the age of 45. In the ensuing year and a half, Saga has had to reinvent itself, bringing on Charlie Mitchell as its new head chef. It seems things were (understandably) rocky at first, but the kinks appear to have since been ironed out.
Saga
70 Pine St, New York, NY
I met Al in the gorgeous lobby of 70 Pine St, where there is a dedicated counter attended by staff members, waiting to send guests to the upper levels via the nearby elevator. We arrived a bit early so that we could enjoy a drink at Overstory, Saga's sister space located one floor above the restaurant. Though Overstory does accept reservations, they have a minimum charge policy in order to hold a spot - wanting to avoid this, we opted for a walk-in instead. The bar was apparently standing room only when we arrived, however we were assured that it would be fine.
To our surprise, "standing room only" meant a dedicated counter area on the side wall of the bar space that was reserved for us specifically! This was the first of many instances of top-notch hospitality we would encounter during our evening.
The bar was fun, with a lively but relatively sophisticated feel. It's fairly small, shaped roughly like a half moon. Numerous windows showcase the soaring views and allow light into the space.
At any time during their visit, guests are invited to step out onto the expansive balcony that runs around the entire top of the building. The views were absolutely breathtaking, though it was both extremely chilly and windy. I can only imagine how amazing it must be to enjoy this area during better weather.
Back inside, we ordered drinks and were told within minutes of arriving that there was a table ready for us, so we sat and enjoyed our cocktails, catching up for a bit in the lovely atmosphere. When it came time for our dinner reservation, the staff warmly invited us downstairs, took our coats, and transferred our check. Fantastic!
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Before being seated, guests are brought to a separate little bar, where they're offered a complimentary drink from a brief list of options. Our bartender was wonderfully friendly and welcoming.
Cocktails in-hand, we were then walked over to our seat in the main dining room. The space is a bit labyrinthine, with little alcoves, corridors, staircases, and side rooms all over. We thought it was very cool, as it felt like being in somebody's luxurious home; we later learned that these top three floors were in fact once a residential space owned by Henry Latham Doherty, founder of the Cities Service Company for which this building once served as headquarters.
Cornbread & Oscietra Gold Caviar
A very nice little first bite. The caviar played well with the unorthodox cornbread tart shell.
A very nice little first bite. The caviar played well with the unorthodox cornbread tart shell.
Shima Aji Tartlette
Miso, Shishito
The second bite was a beautiful little tartare of Japanese horse mackerel, delicately layered flavors in a wafer-thin, shatteringly crisp shell.
Madai Tempura
I do wish fine restaurants would provide more detail on the take-home menu. Though listed simply as "Madai Tempura", I know this dish had a lot more in it then that, though I can't remember. I believe it was dusted with spice and there was hot sauce involved somehow. Either way, it was a tasty course, with a great crunchy but still light fried exterior surrounding hot, juicy fish.
White Salmon
Ginger, Citrus
This lighter salmon course was a nice interlude, but didn't stand out the way some others did.
Potato Salad & Kristal Caviar
One of the big signature dishes, this plate reimagined the timeless classic of pairing caviar and potato. I recall this being very delicious, with the potato "salad" draped in a rich, velvety sauce.
Fluke
Brioche, Clam
A perfectly cooked, succulent piece of fish with crispy skin. Delicious, but not as creative as some others.
Sawara
Uni (Supplement), Tsuyahime Dirty Rice, Ham Hock Broth, Hot Sauce
Another signature dish saw Spanish mackerel (a favorite of mine) served in a deliciously porky broth with dirty rice. I opted to add on the sea urchin supplement, which was nice, but the dish would have been perfectly fine without it. In the back you can see a small bowl of fruity and spicy hot sauce, which was a fun addition. This was a very satisfying plate of food.
Venison
King Trumpet Mushrooms, Cabbage
A5 Wagyu Beef (Supplement)
The normal main course is venison served with mushrooms and various forms of cabbage, though all chose to supplement up for the A5 Wagyu beef. Both were delicious.
Moroccan Tea & Honeycomb
A nice warming interlude between savory and sweet courses.
Pear, Ginger, Maple
We loved this dessert. The detail in the little maple leaf crisps on top was insane. Though the underlying sweet looks simple, it contained multiple layers of flavor and texture. This may have been my favorite dish of the evening.
Petit Fours
Lychee, Raspberry, Cherry
A nice selection of final sweet bites with various fruit flavors.
Espresso & Bourbon
To close out the meal, Al ordered an espresso, which he noted had a very astringent flavor, and I opted for a Woodford Reserve Double Oaked bourbon (per the server's suggestion, as the whiskey I actually wanted was unavailable). I enjoyed the bourbon, though I was unhappy that they added an ice cube to it without asking, as I always drink whiskey neat.
On the way out I stopped for one last photo of the city, looking up at the spectacularly lit Freedom Tower.
Our take-home bags included a menu with some details about the restaurant, as well as a delicious candy bar that was basically high-end peanut butter and jelly.
Overall, Saga was a great experience, bolstered by its incredible space and exceptional hospitality. I will say that while the food was extremely solid throughout, it didn't always feel as creative or refined as other restaurants of this star level. Still, we had a wonderful time and I would definitely go back if cost and opportunity afforded it.
