Garganelli

I recently picked up some 00 flour to use for pasta making. I'd been using AP up to this point, but never quite felt my fresh pasta came out as well as I would like. 

As a test, I made a small portion of fresh dough and rolled them into garganelli. The results were good - a nice springy texture, though the garganelli fell a bit flat. Regardless, with a bit of butter, truffle oil, truffle zest, and pecorino romano, they were delicious. 

Sixty Three Clinton

A while back, I subscribed to Eater's YouTube channel, which (mostly) has some really great content. They'll often spotlight a new or otherwise overlooked restaurant, and one such recent example was Sixty Three Clinton. I was blown away by what I saw in the video from co-owners Raymond Trinh and chef Sam Clonts (the country's youngest Michelin-starred chef), who both began working together years ago at Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare. I decided that I wanted to splurge and try it out, so Leah and I booked a reservation and, a few weeks later, enjoyed an absolutely spectacular experience on par with the best restaurants NYC has to offer. 

Sixty Three Clinton
63 Clinton St, New York, NY

We were lucky enough to get seats at the counter, which looks directly into the kitchen. We love being able to see the chefs at work. Behind us was a small, U-shaped bar, and in the entry room were a few individual tables. The décor felt modern but warm and inviting, though FYI the dark ambiance did make my photos turn out a bit grainy. 

Happy wife! We enjoyed our cozy little corner of the counter. 

Menu

The seven-course tasting menu is a substantial value, though there were three supplements which bumped up the price if ordered, which we did. 

Pineapple Daiquiri

The cocktail menu was limited, with only three or so options offered, all of which were simple classics. Nevertheless, we each enjoyed a balanced and generous pineapple daiquiri to start. 

Breakfast Taco

Hash Brown, Ajitama, Salsa Verde, Trout Roe

One of the signature dishes of Chef Clonts, an Arizon native, and one they spent a fair amount of time covering in the Eater spot. We found this to be wonderfully creative and satisfying. The contrast of textures was very nice and the trout roe added a pleasant moistness to the mouthfeel of what might have otherwise been a slightly dry bite. The unusual star here was the freshly made flour tortilla, which was warm and soft, with an inviting smell that reminded me of just-baked bread (more on that later). 

Caviar Temaki

The other signature dish that was covered heavily in the Eater segment. The idea of serving caviar in a hand roll never really occurred to me, but after eating this I was surprised that more restaurants haven't done it. Of course that's probably a cost thing. Here at Sixty Three Clinton, they make a point of allowing the customer to indulge in caviar at a reasonable price point. While this hand roll is by no means cheap, weighing in at an additional $55, the cost per unit is very low, as the amount of caviar you receive is extremely generous - probably two to three times what another restaurant would serve it twice the price point. 

The roll itself was delicious and the novelty of watching Chef Clonts personally prepare each once tableside was very enjoyable. 

King Salmon

Meyer Lemon, Fennel

After two fantastic courses, I didn't think things could get any better, but I was blown away by this deceptively simple salmon dish. It was bright and refreshing, with a lovely textural contrast from the crunchy fennel, smooth fish, and creamy lemon sauce. 

Fresh Tofu

California Uni, Celeriac, Mutsu Apple

Our next supplement was the sea urchin topping this tofu course for an additional $10, which again felt quite worth it and paired very well both texturally and flavor-wise. Leah and I are nuts about fresh tofu, and the version offered here was outstanding. The crunchy bits of celeriac and apple were studded with a crumble which imparted a smoky flavor, taking the whole dish to another level. 

Congee

Sunchoke, Chili, Black Périgord Truffle

The third supplement involved freshly shaved black truffle over this comfort bowl of porridge. Leah opted to forgo the truffle, so we go to taste it both with and without. The congee was warm and savory, with little hidden gems of sunchoke and something sausage-like which we couldn't identify studded throughout. While the plate was delicious, this was the only dish I thought I might have been disappointed in a bit if I hadn't ordered the truffle, as it felt slightly lacking to me without the luxurious $35 topping. 

Maitake Mushroom

Comté, Chestnut, Dark Rye Sourdough & Butter

We were seated directly across from a hotel rack filled with dark rolls, and had been eyeing them hungrily all night. They were finally served with this incredible hen of the woods mushroom course. The mushroom, bolstered by chestnut, was ultra-woodsy and had a meaty chew with a crusty exterior. The whole thing sat atop a puddle of cheese sauce, which invoked fondue flavors. It was a very unusual plate and one that felt like an absolute homerun. 

The warm rye roll was outstanding in its own right, though I would have liked a little bit more cheese sauce on the plate to sop up with the roll, as we ran out of butter pretty quickly. 

Green Circle Chicken

Smoked Foie Gras Sauce, Jus, Five Space, Japanese Yam

The final savory course was a roulade of chicken. If I'm guessing correctly, the chicken was prepared using "meat glue", a substance famously used by Wylie Dufresne to bond different cuts of meat together into a cohesive form, then poached using an immersion circulator and finally seared before service. The result was an especially tender and juicy medallion of bird, which served over two sauces: one made of creamy foie gras and the other a thick demi-glace. The slightly charred tuber gave a nice neutral component to work with the sauces as well. Fantastic!

Baked Alaska

Satsuma Mandarin Ice Cream. Cardamom Cake

This modernized baked Alaska seems to be the trademark dessert. The individual portions were quite cute and fun to cut into, revealing their interior layers. It was a lovely end to the meal, with mild citrus sweetness and a nice spice complexity from the cardamom cake. 

Whiskey Del Bac - Classic

We had a great time chatting with our server and she offered us a complimentary after-dinner drink in the form of a shot each of this Arizonan whiskey. We enjoyed it thoroughly, and I remarked that it had the pleasant sweetness of bourbon with the smoky peat aroma of Scotch. 

Truffle-Infused Whiskey

We apparently really got on our server's good side, as she went above and beyond, asking if we would like to try something experimental that they were working on. We said of course, and received this shot of whiskey that was in the process of being infused with truffle. There was even a little nugget of truffle in the glass! It was an interesting experience, as the aroma of the spirit was intensely truffle-y, but the flavor was all whiskey. Whether that's what they were going for or not, we sure enjoyed it!

We had a magical time at Sixty Three Clinton. Having come off a recent visit to Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, where both the owners worked previously, it was interesting to compare and contrast the two experiences. You can definitely see the influence in Chef Clonts' food, with small bites and heavy Asian notes, but the overall vibe was a lot more fun and low-key, which we enjoyed. I think this is a really special restaurant and I see big things for these guys in the future. 

Wedding Cake

For years, Leah and I have wanted to try remaking our wedding cake at home. We were recently feeling a serious sweet tooth and decided it was finally time. We cobbled together a recipe from a few sources, including Alton Brown's excellent A Far, Far Better Cake. The results were fantastic; possibly even better than the cake from our actual wedding!

The cake itself is spiced with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, and thyme. Each round is topped with a thin layer of apple butter. The center is filled with cooked apples (basically apple pie filling) and the whole thing is frosted with maple buttercream. Outstanding!

Jungsik with Al & Megan

My best friend and long-time dining partner Al turned forty this year. While he and I had already enjoyed our annual dinner back in July at the excellent Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, Al's wife Megan decided she wanted to treat him to a surprise night out with them, myself, and my wife Leah. The last time we enjoyed such an occasion was the year we were all married, when, instead of wedding gifts, we went to Eleven Madison Park together. 

Jungsik was a restaurant that had been on mine and Al's shortlist for years. We also considered some other options, but Jungsik had availability on the date and time that fit our schedule, and we liked the idea of their very quaint outdoor cabins.

The meal was wonderful and the dining experience in the cabin was unusual but fun. Though we agreed the food mostly didn't feel very Korean, it was all delicious nonetheless and made for a memorable celebratory evening. 

A note up front - unfortunately, Jungsik's post-meal printed menu takes the fashionable approach of only describing the main ingredient in each dish. As such, I'm left solely with my memory to recall the other components that went into each course, which in most cases is very limited. I also missed three wine photos, but that's not as big a deal!

Jungsik
2 Harrison St, New York, NY

Leah and I arrived first, as the dinner itself and our participation in it was a surprise for Al. We only got a brief glimpse of the restaurant interior, but it looked lovely and inviting, especially with this beautiful Christmas tree in the foyer. 

We were brought to one of a dozen+ "cabins" out on the sidewalk. We thought it was nice! Very minimal but cozy and well done, all things considered. 

Al was not so surprised but was nevertheless delighted by the reveal!

Banchan 반찬

While each bite ranged from very good to extraordinary, we would never have guessed that this was supposed to represent banchan rather than a French amuse-bouche. 

I included the "after" shot, showing all the empty plates that our poor server had to clear when we were finished! He was a champ though, and managed the get all but one of them on one little tray, Tetris-style. 

Cocktails and Champagne
Left: Busanhaeng - Calvados, Omija Molasses, Lime, Bitters

Right: Old Fashioned - Rye Whiskey, Macallan 12 Year, Su Jeong Gwa Syrup

Both cocktails were great and represented fun, yet subtle, twists on the classic Manhattan and Old Fashioned. Al didn't order a cocktail, but was offered a glass of champagne instead. 

Corbon, Brut Blanc de Blancs, Avize, Grand Cru 2010

Osetra Caviar 케비어

Our first course was a satisfying blend of buttery and salty flavors, pairing caviar with langoustine and a creamy, tangy sabayon. 

Benanti, Nerello Mascalese Etna Rosato, Sicilia 2019

Scallop 관자

Light and velvety, with a bit of tartness and earthiness from the beet. A very refreshing second course. 

Alvear, Pedro Ximénez, "Tres Miradas", Andalucía 2018

I'm not much of a wine drinker, but was particularly excited by this pour, as I actually knew what the server was talking about for once! Reason being that I am a big cocktail enthusiast, so I was already familiar with Pedro Ximénez sherry, a common cocktail ingredient. It was interesting to hear about how the grape was used in an untraditional manner to make this wine instead of sherry. 

Octopus 문어

We were told this was Chef Yim's signature dish and once we took a bite, we realized it was for good reason. This was quite simply the best octopus dish any of us had ever eaten. It was unclear how exactly the kitchen managed to get the cephalopod this tender, but the flesh was almost creamy, with a beautiful thin crust on the exterior. Served simply with gochujang sauce, this was both the most delicious course thus far, and also the first in which we could finally taste the Korean influence. 

Goldeneye Snapper 금눈돔

At this point I unfortunately forgot to take photos of the wine, but I recall it pairing well with this juicy, delicate snapper. 

Tuna Kimbap 참치김밥

I was introduced to kimbap in middle school by Korean friends, though I always enjoyed it less than Japanese makizushi, probably due to its emphasis on vegetables rather than fish. This roll was on another level, however, with crunchy, toasty nori and beautiful tender tuna, though the use of fish made it feel more Japanese than Korean.

The paper wrapper presentation was cute but unnecessary, given that the nori didn't leave any mess or residue on the fingers in the first place, and we all agreed that the honey mustard was an extraneous addition. I'm aware that kimbap is sometimes served with this condiment, though with the change from vegetable to tuna, it simply didn't work in this straight up approach - maybe it would have benefited from a more creative integration? 

Seaweed Stew 미역국

A small bowl of rich stew was served to Al, as per the Korean tradition of eating this dish on one's birthday. We each had a spoonful and found the flavors to be extraordinary. 

One of the "bee knives" we were given in anticipation of our final savory course. 

Lamb 양갈비

The flavors of this lamb dish with black truffles were fantastic. Al, who is effectively unable to taste truffle for genetic reasons (it's true, look it up) was gracious enough to share his extraneous truffle slices with us! That said, I'm not a fan of the sous vide method for cooking most meats, as I feel it often imparts an almost gummy texture. I also miss the outer crust that forms from searing or grilling, which I think imparts a key textural mouthfeel when enjoying high-quality meat. 

Palette Cleanser

A tiny palette cleanser which looked deceptively like a confection rather than the frozen sorbet it actually was. 

Donnafugata, "Ben Ryé", Passito di Pantelleria 2017

I love dessert wines and found this Italian variety paired wonderfully with our next course. 

Apple 사과

Apple is one of my favorite subjects for dessert (Leah and I had an apple wedding cake). The version here included a deeply caramelized, almost gel-like apple, with rich sweetness. It was a delight next to the oat ice cream and crisp biscuit. 

Mignardise

The first piece on the left was unremarkable, but we thoroughly enjoyed the black sesame macaron. The third bite was liquid inside and burst with explosive flavor, though I can't remember what it was! 

Menu

As I said, the final menu was a little disappointing since it didn't describe any of the additional elements that were on each plate. Nevertheless, the meal was wonderful, if not as top-notch or memorable as some other restaurants at this price point. 

One note was that while we saw a lot of creativity and refinement in Chef Yim's cuisine, we felt the Korean aspects of it were very minimal and overly restrained. This isn't an issue on its own, as Yim is free to create any food he likes (and the food certainly was delicious), but Jungsik does bill itself as offering "a modern and unique understanding of contemporary Korean cuisine." The promise of "New Korean" was a bit lost, as we felt that only a small handful of the dishes delivered on this goal rather than presenting the more familiar genres of modern French or New American cuisine.